Yeah, I got this tip from Mr. Spurlock too. However, I fashioned my "key-lifter" for split punching insertion from an old Steinway pedal rod (you know, the old type that we all throw out and replace with a threaded/adjustable cap type). I just hack-sawed the rod at about 12 inches, ground down the rough edges with a bench grinder, put the rod in a vise, a pulled it into shape. The metal is really soft and it's very easy to shape into the perfect key-lifting bridge. I also thought that it was somewhat poetic that I was using an old disgarded, obsolete, genuine Steinway part to level keys on Steinway grands. BTW. I completely agree about the key beam height. Lots of modern D's and some B's have had to have Kluge keyboards made to replace the "de-celerated" action design. Way too much key-flex and whipping on modern Steinways using the "accelerated bearing system. ps. I consider Steinway's "modern" if they were built since WWI (c.1917). Not a lot has changed since then. Yeah, accelerated action, jack regulating screws, and spring loaded tabs in the back-action, etc. But we replace/modernize/update all of that during restoration anyway... Cheers, Brian Henselman, RPT -----Original Message----- From: dale r fox <foxpiano@juno.com> To: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org> Date: Saturday, October 02, 1999 10:51 PM Subject: Re: balance rail bearings > Actually, a coat hanger is not sufficient to the task. I Use 1/8 " >steel rod about 12" in length with both ends bent at 90 degrees about >1&1/2" from the end to make a rather long based U shape. l________l > This support is then placed under the keys just behind the front rail >pins to hold the keys up whilst playing with the balance rail punchings. >The 'U' is upside down at this point with the long section of rod >holding the keys elevated. Using a Kawai / Spurlock style action support >allows placing of slit paper punchings under the felt punchings with the >aid of alligator forceps. Use of the action support eliminates the >possibility of scratching or worse of the stretcher which can easily >happen when the action is upended on the tails of the keys. I use this >method on virtually every action. Steinways with balance rail bearings >included. BTW, wish Steinway would dispense with those, at least on >the larger grands. The keys need beam height way worse than they need >the marketing hype. B's and D's have way to much flex to be good >mechanical levers under hard blows. > >Credit for this method should be passed on to Bill Spurlock and Fern >Henry. At least that's who taught me this time saver. > >Dale Fox > > > >On Sat, 2 Oct 1999 20:06:57 -0600 "Joe & Penny Goss" ><imatunr@primenet.com> writes: >>Bob, >>I seem to remember a freebie given out at a convention a while back >>that >>might be of interest to you. >>It was one of those tools that you could make from a coat hanger. >>I do not remember the dimentions but perhaps someone else on the list >>will. >>The purpose of the tool was to hold a section of keys up so that you >>could >>remove or add the punchings. >>Joe Goss >>http://www.primenet.com/~imatunr/#15 >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: Robert A. Anderson <fndango@azstarnet.com> >>To: <pianotech@ptg.org> >>Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 6:11 PM >>Subject: Re: balance rail bearings >> >> >>> Newton wrote: >>> >>> "By standing the action on the back rail and protecting the >>stretcher >>> from the drop screws one can move the keys and bearings far enough >>to >>> see what is under the bearing and remove what is needed with a good >>> pair of forceps." >>> >>> Newton, the bearing strip is 4 mm thick and butts up against the >>> bearings. Lifting the key and bearing as high as possible will only >>let >>> me see down the pin a fraction of a mm below the top of the strip. I >>> admit that I can fish for the punchings with my forceps and raise >>them >>> above the level of the strip, but I can only do this for the >>naturals. I >>> have a very good forceps, and I can't reach the punchings for the >>> sharps. There just isn't enough room. >>> >>> Newton also wrote: >>> >>> "Steinway, or any manufacturer, is cheap and will not do anything >>they >>> do not have to do even if we do not always understand their >>> rationale. DOn't mess with it unless you really understand it." >>> >>> Manufactureres may be cheap, Newton, but the rest does not >>automatically >>> follow. I'll bet that you could find manufacturing practices that >>are >>> only done by tradition or that manufacturers might have >>psychological >>> commitments to keep going. For example, balance rail bearings >>themselves >>> are not cheap, but I have never been personally told by anyone that >>they >>> could tell the difference in touch between a key with the bearing >>and >>> one without the bearing. (I can't tell the difference.) I've noticed >>> hearsay evidence that the bearings are better, and it makes a good >>> marketing story for S&S. But I'm not convinced. >>> >>> Newton also wrote: >>> >>> "The strips are their to prevent the bering from twisting." >>> >>> This is the logical explanation for the strips. As I wrote, I'll >>find >>> out how much twisting is going to happen, now that I've removed the >>> front strip. I'll report back with my observations. Can I assume >>that >>> your statement is one of logical inference, Newton, or have you >>really >>> taken out the strip and observed twisting? I can certainly twist >>loose >>> bearings easily enough, but they shouldn't be loose. I've had to >>size >>> bearing holes that were loose to the point of making noise. I find >>them >>> tedious to work with, and I'm sorry S&S uses them at all. >>> >>> Am I just inept at this levelling procedure or has anyone else >>> experienced my problem? >>> >>> Bob Anderson >>> Tucson, AZ >>> >> > >___________________________________________________________________ >Get the Internet just the way you want it. >Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! >Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
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