Roger: Will go dar. Will do dat. Tanks, Tanks, & more Tanks. Terry Farrell Piano Tuning & Service Brandon, Florida mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Jolly" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 8:32 PM Subject: Re: Refinish Ebony Sharps & Ivory > Now Terry, > Dat's why I use the mist coat of lacquer. Bin thar, Done > dat. <g.> > Just buff with 0000 steel wool and mist coat, trust me you will like it. > I find the very thin coat of lacquer does not tend to peel or chip, also a > little of the grain character shows through. > > have a good day > Roger > > > > At 07:42 PM 06/03/00 -0500, you wrote: > >I am in the process of refinishing a set of ebony sharps and ivory naturals > > > >As Roger Jolly suggested, I sanded finish off the sharps, sanded them smooth > >w/ 400 grit, and applied black shoe leather dye to them. They look great! > >Shoe dye was easy to use also (also did the sides of the key with the > >black). Instead of laquer (which I thought might wear off too soon) I used > >Forsby's Tung Oil Finish. It looks pretty good, but after 2 days the finish > >is still kinda gummy. Is there any way to get that stuff to dry? If I can > >get it to dry, I was going to hit it with some 0000 steel wool & then buff. > > > >Regarding the ivories, several folks recommended hydrogen peroxide or wood > >bleach. Ok, but when do I bleach them? Before I sand (I plan of sanding w/ > >400, 600, and then likely 1,000 grit before polishing)? After I do the first > >rough sanding? After I am done with all sanding? Just before the last > >sanding (I'm guessing that it might be best to do most of my sanding, say > >through 1,000 grit, then bleach, then hit the keys lightly with 1,500 grit > >before polishing)? > > > >And then how do I polish the ivories? Are there any specific compounds > >and/or buffing wheels that work best? Any that I should necessarily avoid? > > > >One last one. Several ivories are just starting to come unglued from the > >keys. It appears that most of the ivory is attached quite well, but on > >several you can push up on the lip and see that it is just starting to > >separate. Is there a good method of reattaching the ivory to the key without > >tearing all apart? I was thinking of just simply wicking a tad of thin CA > >under there, wiping any runs off with the solvent, clamping, and let cure > >with room humidity. Is that the best way? Is there any risk of thin CA > >soaking into the ivory and making it look funky? > > > >That's all the questions for now :-) > > > >Terry Farrell > >Piano Tuning & Service > >Tampa, Florida > >mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com > > > Roger Jolly > Saskatoon, Canada. > 306-665-0213 > Fax 652-0505 >
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