Hi David, I have both photo's and slides, and will be covering the topic, in my Taming the Korean action class in Reno. If you send me your mailing address I will send a Drawing. I think Derek Gibson scanned these photo's and posted them some time ago, so try the archives. regards roger At 05:47 AM 2/24/01 +0000, you wrote: >Roger: > >I thought I'd post this again since I should have changed the subject >heading to be sure you would see it. Do you have any drawings, photo's, >descriptions that you can post of the jig for tapering hammers on a table >saw with the shanks on. I usually taper prior to hanging but there are many >occasions where this type of jig would be useful for reducing hammer weight >after the hammers are hung. > >thanks, > >David Love > > >>From: jolly roger <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> >>Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org >>To: pianotech@ptg.org >>Subject: Re: traveling/traveling/ traveling? >>Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 22:29:11 -0600 >> >> >> >Hey there Roger... was wondering when you would pipe in on this one !.. >>Say... >> >have you ever tried this "hang first travel second" approach ?? If so why >>dont >> >you tell us a bit about your experience with it ? >> >-- >> >>Hi Richard, >> I have tried several methods. >>Here is how I do it today, or until I find a better method that suits me. >>I use only German or Japanese shank's, since I feel they are of a higher >>quality of material and machining, than their North American equivalents. >>(They need far less travelling). >> >>1. Clean the rail of old sand paper in most cases, since old travel paper >>and and various 'gunk' always seems to be inbedded in it. >>2. Very lightly sand with 320grit, and replace sand paper. Thin double >>sided sticky tape is clean and fast. >> >>Side Note: as I'm typing. I space, rotate, and travel all wippens before I >>start, >>3. Quickly screw on all new shanks with electric driver. Eye ball spacing >>and rough checking the fit of wip to knuckle as I go. Goes real fast. ( >>Tip.Examine the knuckles carefully of you new shank's) >>4. Dry fit the end hammers in each section, checking travel, strike point, >>over centering, and squareness, ( use a machinist square on the bench to >>check both sides of each hammer) >>Once I'm satisfied, glue samples and recheck in piano. >>5. Travel any obvious bad shanks. Very few needed with high quality parts. >> >>Another side note: weigh and sort shanks before starting. >>6. I use the Spurlock gig. As I glue on the rest of the hammers, I am >>checking that the bottom the tails sit squarely on the tray and the hammers >>are parallel with each other. >>7. Leave 24hrs before doing fine travelling and burn in. Moisture from >>the glue will often cause a shank to twist a little. >>8. Any hammers that are more than a few degrees off square should be >>pulled and reglued, any burn in more than this has a way of creeping back. >>9. Remove and number all hammers and shanks. >>10. Trim shanks on band saw. >>11. Taper hammers as require for clearance and or wight control. I have a >>good set of jigs to do this chore on the table saw with shanks on. >>12. Tail hammer arc to 1/2 the centre pin to tail radius. >>13. Reinstall hammers >>14. At the piano, spacing, fine travel, and srting fit/spacing is done in >>one combined operation. >>Have I ever said grand actions are interactive?. >>15 Now go back and relign the wips, should be just small corrections. >> >>I'm boring and hanging a set of hammers on Monday, so I may change the >>proceedure. <G> >>They will be Abel's so very few problems. Great shanks. >> >>Regards Roger >> >> >> > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com >
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