Adjusting dampers to tray

[Kevin E. Ramsey]

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    Roger, Thanks. I like the idea of drawing the line, that would give =
you an exact reference point and can always be taken off with a stroke =
or two of sandpaper.=20
    What I'm curious about is, are you talking about setting each =
section separately? You can certainly do that, but you won't end up with =
dampers which raise in a very uniform way. Personally, I would rather =
have a very uniform feel while I'm playing. But the tech who will =
invariably sees your work may say "tsk tsk", or the equivalent.=20
    Other than that, I don't see your methods really differing from mine =
very much. Someone suggested replacing the key end felt, and of course =
you should do that on pianos that have seen some wear. I come from the =
position that I am a staff tech at the largest dealership in Phoenix, so =
most of what I do is to bring raw pianos up to their full potential. I =
work on Steinway, Yamaha, Kawai, Shigeru Kawai, and Baldwin (Ahem, along =
with the less costly POS's). =20
    Speaking of Baldwin; you're a dealer, why don't they ever even think =
about "damper timing"? In fact, I learned how to do a real good job- =
real quick, just because of them. God Bless 'em for that.=20
   =20


Kevin E. Ramsey
ramsey@extremezone.com
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 1:30 PM
  Subject: Re: Adjusting dampers to tray


  Hi Kevin,
                The approach that I use in the field if I am without my =
damper timing Jig, and using the tray to regulate timing.

  1. Draw a horizontal pencil line across the end sample hammers of each =
section, at half the blow distance, down from the crown.
  2. Keep adjusting the pedal nut until the damper just starts to move, =
as the  line becomes level with the adjacent hammer crown.
  3. Remove action and re position the damper wire in the underlever.
  4. Reinstall action and check timing.
  5. Pay close attention to the tips of wedge damper felt for  clearance =
of all strings, trim tips as required.
  6. If you are happy with results, remove action and do the rest of the =
dampers to samples.
  7. Adjust sustenudo system.
  8. Re adjust damper tray timing, there should be at least 1.5mm from =
the bottom of the tray and the dags, and 1mm lost motion from the tray =
to the under levers.

  Hope this may help
  Regards Roger




  At 05:49 PM 6/8/02 -0700, you wrote:

        Matt, what I do is perhaps the easiest, and usually gets me =
perfect results. ( I like what Roger had to say about installing new =
tray felt) =20
        What I do when I want to re-set damper timing, like when the =
dampers are almost down on the key ends, and lifting immediately, is to =
go under the piano and adjust the pedal rod nut up a bit. Then I come =
back up, put my finger on the top of a damper (lightly) and depress the =
key. The damper will stop the hammer rise where it contacts the back of =
the key. This is how I check the timing. I just raise the pedal rod nut =
until the damper timing is at one third to one half blow distance. Then =
I pull the action, loosen all the damper screws, lift the underlevers, =
making sure they're free. Then you can tap the dampers lightly down into =
position, re-tighten the screws, and re-regulate the pedal nut. After =
correcting the ones that inevitably twist upon tightening the screws, =
you're basically done. You'll inevitably run into some that are a little =
tight on the wire, but not bad enough to run a drill bit down into. just =
lift the underlever up on the wire, and after the dampers are down in =
position, tap the underlever down on the tray lightly.=20
        All you're really doing is setting the timing to the same thing =
that will be lifting the dampers; the tray.=20
        The only problem with this in a Steinway is that often the tray =
is not level. It will end up with a damper timing that's earlier in the =
bass and later in the treble, which is the opposite from what I'd really =
like. I just did this the other day, and after about a half hour's work, =
they all lifted perfectly with the pedal. It's a really good technique. =
Richard Davenport taught me this.  I've probably corrupted his =
technique, so if anyone has a problem with how I described it, blame me, =
not Richard.=20


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