polyester repair

Isaac OLEG oleg-i@wanadoo.fr
Sun, 27 Apr 2003 18:59:03 +0200


Hello,

I do use protective cream now (gloves are uneasy to work with) , as I
noticed that sanding or may be buffing polyester give me some redness
on the skin, kind of very bad feel of allergy.

Having the good polishing machine, numerous pastes and liquids is also
helpful as polyester differ from brand to brand, and react
differently.

Cleaning the old silicone product that is possibly (probably) used on
the piano will allow for fine sanding (1200 - 2000/300 and then
polishing is possible). What is the best product for getting rid of
the old silicon polish ?

I agree on the edges being important, they are the thinnest part when
sanding, I enlarge the crack and roughen the edges with 80 sanding
linen A wash with acetone is cleaning the place before repair (but not
elsewhere)

When rubbing, avoiding heat is the most important thing I guess,
finding the good cutting product, pastes for cotton wheels then
liquids for foams can shorten a lot the work.

You should (may be) consider buying a new piano to experiment on it
(Steinway are the best) do some nice scratches on it, as for tuning,
repairing scratches on high end instruments is better for self
training ;>)


Isaac OLEG

Entretien et réparation de pianos.

PianoTech
17 rue de Choisy
94400 VITRY sur SEINE
FRANCE
tel : 033 01 47 18 06 98
fax : 033 01 47 18 06 90
cell: 06 60 42 58 77

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la
> part de The Leshers
> Envoyé : dimanche 27 avril 2003 17:15
> À : Pianotech
> Objet : Re: polyester repair
>
>
> > has anyone on our list done polyester repair?
> specifically, I have a U1
> > polished ebony fallboard with a small chip, about the
> size of your small
> > fingernail, and maybe 3-4 mm deep. would a polyester
> repair of this size
> be
> > something I could do myself with the proper materials?
> Any advice in this
> > matter will be very much appreciated.
> >
> > Terry Peterson
>
> Terry,
>
> The short answer to your question is "yes."  The materials
> cost about $400
> for the full Monty.  However, there is another (perhaps
> greater) cost, that
> of spending the time and enduring the frustration of
> getting good at this
> rather demanding repair discipline.
>
> I do polyester repair work and rather enjoy it--now.  I say
> "now" because I
> have had to pay some dues to become proficient and
> confident in my ability.
> In other words, I have had to eat a few jobs along the way.  But I'm
> convinced this is the only way to learn--by jumping in up
> to your neck,
> doing it, learning from your mistakes, and doing it again,
> again and again.
>
> Polyester repair work is not for everybody.  I know at
> least two who got the
> materials and not long after, put them away for good.  I
> think the reason
> for this is that it's not as easy as it looks.  I
> characterize polyester
> repair as part chemistry, part art.  Either part can get
> you into trouble.
> Like anything else worth learning well, it takes commitment
> and practice.
>
> A few words about the chemistry:  the repair stuff gives
> off quite an odor
> and is not forgiving to carelessness.  Also, water, pastes
> and liquid
> polishes are involved.  You can end up with a mess if not
> situationally
> aware at all times.
>
> Customer expectations are difficult too.  I find that
> customers often expect
> magic where magic is not possible.  They expect all the
> damage to disappear.
> The good news is that you can make minor damage literally
> disappear.  It's
> not so easy with major dings.  The idea here is to convince
> the customer
> that damage subdued enough that a reasonably sighted
> individual will not
> notice it.under normal conditions may have to be good
> enough.  I give a
> little speech to this effect before I start.  It is usually
> effective in
> skewing expectations just enough that, in the end, the
> actual repair is a
> pleasant surprise.  If however, the customer inspects your
> work with a
> magnifying glass and a supercharged, turbohalogen light,
> you could be in for
> some frustration and out some cash.
>
> The damage itself is also troubling.  Let me explain by
> saying I got started
> in poly repairs by buying a seat in one of Ruth Phillips'
> classes.  The seat
> cost $295 at the time and included the hands-on class, plus
> a polyester
> repair kit.  (I think the class costs about $395 now but
> you get more in the
> kit.)  In the class, we all got a 4" square of
> polyester-finished wood.  We
> then repaired a self-inflicted ding in the center of that
> square--a pretty
> benign set of conditions.  The point is that actual dings
> never seem to be
> so benign.  In fact, they usually encompass edges and
> corners where your
> repair will have to blend at least two surfaces.  Realize
> this and practice
> enough to be able to deal with it.
>
> In summary, polyester repair work can be fiscally and
> mentally rewarding,
> but like most other worthwhile endeavors, it's neither a
> freebie nor a
> no-brainer.
>
> Best,
>
> Cliff Lesher
> Winfield, PA
>
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>


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