Good point, Greg. In this solvent based system, your filler had better be as dark or darker than your stain. If it isn't, it will mark the grain with a lighter color than the background stain, showing up as light spots under the clearcoat. Sometimes this doesn't become apparent until all the topcoats are applied, when it's too late. Then it's stripping time Stains can be either pigment or dyes, or a combination of the two. Pigments tend to sit on top of the wood, dyes pentrate the fibers and look more natural. Pigments are more fade resistant. There is a third classification: transparent pigments, that look like dye stains, but have the fade resistance of pigments. Here comes the plug: PianoLac will be coming out with a series of waterborne, non grain raising transparent pigment stains. Arthur Grudko StarHawk Labs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 3:05 PM Subject: Re: Refinishing - Stripping & Stain Uneveness > > Gordon, > I will have to try this. Something about this is puzzling to me > though. If the paste wood filler is applied after the sealer and before a > top coat what are you doing about the color of the filler? > > Greg Newell > > > P.S. did you mean stain first or die first? Stain is more like paint in > that it sits on top while die penetrates the wood to a much higher degree. > > > > > At 02:27 PM 4/28/2003, you wrote: > > >You should apply the stain first, then a thin sealer > >coat of finish, and then sand off raised whiskers... > >LIGHTLY!!!!.( 320 grit wet or dry ) And THEN apply the > >paste wood filler! AND THEN topcoat. This schedule > >will provide a MUCH, MUCH cleaner looking piano!!! > > Thump > > > >--- Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net> wrote: > > > Terry, > > > Rockler Woodworking and Hardware has a > > > product called Wunderfil > > > which is just your basic wood paste filler. I've not > > > been too crazy about > > > it for it's tendency to lift out ( minor amounts) > > > when you are brushing on > > > the water based die and or stain. I'm think9ing of > > > switching to alcohol > > > based so that the filler stays put when I re-wet > > > with the die or stain. > > > > > > Greg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > At 08:52 AM 4/27/2003, you wrote: > > > > > > >Hi Greg. What are you filling grain with? I have > > > always used > > > >marine-oriented filler/stain in the past. I am > > > interested in going > > > >water-based just to cut down the fumes. > > > > > > > >Terry Farrell > > > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > > >From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net> > > > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> > > > >Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 3:57 PM > > > >Subject: Re: Refinishing - Stripping & Stain > > > Uneveness > > > > > > > > > > > > > Terry, > > > > > You can stain, sure, but start with an > > > anneline or a water based > > > > > dye first. That will help make the color much > > > more even. > > > > > > > > > > Greg > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > At 03:23 PM 4/26/2003, you wrote: > > > > > > > > > > >Refinishing question. I started stripping a > > > piano - the typical reddish > > > > > >stained mahogany. The finish was original. I > > > have always used chemical > > > > > >strippers before but I am trying scraping this > > > time. The scraping > > > > seems to > > > > > >go easy and well, except that you end up with > > > some areas of stain largely > > > > > >removed and some areas remaining, resulting in > > > a blotchy appearance. I > > > > > >have sanded, and that helps a little, but it is > > > still blotchy and sanding > > > > > >is tough because the sandpaper just loads up in > > > three seconds flat. > > > > > > > > > > > >My guess is that when I re-stain (will be going > > > with a similar color) > > > > some > > > > > >blotchyness will remain. Using chemical > > > strippers in the past has yielded > > > > > >fairly even-colored wood to work with - so I > > > don't really know what will > > > > > >happen if the blotchy color is stained. Anyone > > > with any experience with > > > > > >this? Recommendations? Thanks. > > > > > > > > > > > >Terry Farrell > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > > > > >pianotech list info: > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > > > > > > Greg Newell > > > > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > ------- > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > pianotech list info: > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > > >pianotech list info: > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > > Greg Newell > > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pianotech list info: > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > > > > > > >__________________________________ > >Do you Yahoo!? > >The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. > >http://search.yahoo.com > >_______________________________________________ > >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > Greg Newell > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC