Refinishing - Stripping & Stain Uneveness

[Greg Newell]

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Gordon,
         As I understand it the Stain is more color fast as it is more like=
=20
paint. Thicker and heavier than die and less likely to penetrate into the=20
wood pores that die. Die can easily be bleached by the sun's rays etc.
         You use the term "water-soluble aniline dyes" which is a bit=20
contradictory in my understanding. Analine die's are not water based as far=
=20
as I know and water based dies are not analine. Analine is a poison that I=
=20
believe is actually no longer used even in products calling themselves=20
analine dies.
         Where do you get this filler of which you speak and is it water=
 based?

Greg




At 10:27 PM 4/28/2003, you wrote:

>I meant a  dye coat first. I am a tad perplexed by
>Arthur Grudco's allegation that pigment stains are
>more fade resistant than aniline dyes, as I thought it
>was actually the other way around. At least with
>water-soluble aniline dyes, which is what I recommend.
>They are, I believe, more fade resistant than your
>typical oil-based pigment-stain . (i.e. "Minwax").
>      And, yes, you MUST be sure that your filler-coat
>is darker than the surrounding stained wood,
>(unless you want a "novelty" finish)!
>      AND IGNORE WHAT IT SAYS ON THE CAN!!! The last
>"Mahogany" filler I bought was the color of pencil
>erasers!  and NO amount of Universal Tint fixed it.
>But "Walnut" filler, on a thin sealer coat, over a
>mahogany dye stain was PERFECT ( For a mahogany piano!
>      Thump
>
>
>         I will have to try this. Something about
> > this is puzzling to me
> > > though. If the paste wood filler is applied after
> > the sealer and before a
> > > top coat what are you doing about the color of the
> > filler?
> > >
> > > Greg Newell
> > >
> > >
> > > P.S. did you mean stain first or die first? Stain
> > is more like paint in
> > > that it sits on top while die penetrates the wood
> > to a much higher degree.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At 02:27 PM 4/28/2003, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >You should apply the stain first, then a thin
> > sealer
> > > >coat of finish, and then sand off raised
> > whiskers...
> > > >LIGHTLY!!!!.( 320 grit wet or dry ) And THEN
> > apply the
> > > >paste wood filler! AND THEN topcoat.  This
> > schedule
> > > >will provide a MUCH, MUCH cleaner looking
> > piano!!!
> > > >      Thump
> > > >
> > > >--- Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net> wrote:
> > > > > Terry,
> > > > >          Rockler Woodworking and Hardware has
> > a
> > > > > product called Wunderfil
> > > > > which is just your basic wood paste filler.
> > I've not
> > > > > been too crazy about
> > > > > it for it's tendency to lift out ( minor
> > amounts)
> > > > > when you are brushing on
> > > > > the water based die and or stain. I'm
> > think9ing of
> > > > > switching to alcohol
> > > > > based so that the filler stays put when I
> > re-wet
> > > > > with the die or stain.
> > > > >
> > > > > Greg
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > At 08:52 AM 4/27/2003, you wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >Hi Greg. What are you filling grain with? I
> > have
> > > > > always used
> > > > > >marine-oriented filler/stain in the past. I
> > am
> > > > > interested in going
> > > > > >water-based just to cut down the fumes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Terry Farrell
> > > > > >
> > > > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > > > >From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
> > > > > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > > > >Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 3:57 PM
> > > > > >Subject: Re: Refinishing - Stripping & Stain
> > > > > Uneveness
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Terry,
> > > > > > >          You can stain, sure, but start
> > with an
> > > > > anneline or a water based
> > > > > > > dye first. That will help make the color
> > much
> > > > > more even.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Greg
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > At 03:23 PM 4/26/2003, you wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >Refinishing question. I started stripping
> > a
> > > > > piano - the typical reddish
> > > > > > > >stained mahogany. The finish was
> > original. I
> > > > > have always used chemical
> > > > > > > >strippers before but I am trying scraping
> > this
> > > > > time. The scraping
> > > > > > seems to
> > > > > > > >go easy and well, except that you end up
> > with
> > > > > some areas of stain largely
> > > > > > > >removed and some areas remaining,
> > resulting in
> > > > > a blotchy appearance. I
> > > > > > > >have sanded, and that helps a little, but
> > it is
> > > > > still blotchy and sanding
> > > > > > > >is tough because the sandpaper just loads
> > up in
> > > > > three seconds flat.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >My guess is that when I re-stain (will be
> > going
> > > > > with a similar color)
> > > > > > some
> > > > > > > >blotchyness will remain. Using chemical
> > > > > strippers in the past has yielded
> > > > > > > >fairly even-colored wood to work with -
> > so I
> > > > > don't really know what will
> > > > > > > >happen if the blotchy color is stained.
> > Anyone
> > > > > with any experience with
> > > > > > > >this? Recommendations? Thanks.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >Terry Farrell
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > > > > > > >pianotech list info:
> > > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Greg Newell
> > > > > > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > -------
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > > > > > > pianotech list info:
> > > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > > > > >pianotech list info:
> > > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > >
> > > > > Greg Newell
> > > > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> > > > > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > > > > pianotech list info:
> > > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >__________________________________
> >
>=3D=3D=3D message truncated =3D=3D=3D
>
>
>__________________________________
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>_______________________________________________
>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives

Greg Newell
Greg's piano Fort=E9
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net=20

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