Greg:
Water soluble aniline dyes. This is what I'm going to be using - just ordered some. Mark Potter also uses these dyes.
TRANSFAST® Wood Dye Powders (sometimes generically referred to as "aniline" dyes).
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransFastdyes.htm
You can get either water or alchohol soluble forms. Check out Homestead's web site - lots of good info there.
Terry Farrell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: Refinishing - Stripping & Stain Uneveness
Gordon,
As I understand it the Stain is more color fast as it is more like
paint. Thicker and heavier than die and less likely to penetrate into the
wood pores that die. Die can easily be bleached by the sun's rays etc.
You use the term "water-soluble aniline dyes" which is a bit
contradictory in my understanding. Analine die's are not water based as far
as I know and water based dies are not analine. Analine is a poison that I
believe is actually no longer used even in products calling themselves
analine dies.
Where do you get this filler of which you speak and is it water based?
Greg
At 10:27 PM 4/28/2003, you wrote:
>I meant a dye coat first. I am a tad perplexed by
>Arthur Grudco's allegation that pigment stains are
>more fade resistant than aniline dyes, as I thought it
>was actually the other way around. At least with
>water-soluble aniline dyes, which is what I recommend.
>They are, I believe, more fade resistant than your
>typical oil-based pigment-stain . (i.e. "Minwax").
> And, yes, you MUST be sure that your filler-coat
>is darker than the surrounding stained wood,
>(unless you want a "novelty" finish)!
> AND IGNORE WHAT IT SAYS ON THE CAN!!! The last
>"Mahogany" filler I bought was the color of pencil
>erasers! and NO amount of Universal Tint fixed it.
>But "Walnut" filler, on a thin sealer coat, over a
>mahogany dye stain was PERFECT ( For a mahogany piano!
> Thump
>
>
> I will have to try this. Something about
> > this is puzzling to me
> > > though. If the paste wood filler is applied after
> > the sealer and before a
> > > top coat what are you doing about the color of the
> > filler?
> > >
> > > Greg Newell
> > >
> > >
> > > P.S. did you mean stain first or die first? Stain
> > is more like paint in
> > > that it sits on top while die penetrates the wood
> > to a much higher degree.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At 02:27 PM 4/28/2003, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >You should apply the stain first, then a thin
> > sealer
> > > >coat of finish, and then sand off raised
> > whiskers...
> > > >LIGHTLY!!!!.( 320 grit wet or dry ) And THEN
> > apply the
> > > >paste wood filler! AND THEN topcoat. This
> > schedule
> > > >will provide a MUCH, MUCH cleaner looking
> > piano!!!
> > > > Thump
> > > >
> > > >--- Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net> wrote:
> > > > > Terry,
> > > > > Rockler Woodworking and Hardware has
> > a
> > > > > product called Wunderfil
> > > > > which is just your basic wood paste filler.
> > I've not
> > > > > been too crazy about
> > > > > it for it's tendency to lift out ( minor
> > amounts)
> > > > > when you are brushing on
> > > > > the water based die and or stain. I'm
> > think9ing of
> > > > > switching to alcohol
> > > > > based so that the filler stays put when I
> > re-wet
> > > > > with the die or stain.
> > > > >
> > > > > Greg
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > At 08:52 AM 4/27/2003, you wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >Hi Greg. What are you filling grain with? I
> > have
> > > > > always used
> > > > > >marine-oriented filler/stain in the past. I
> > am
> > > > > interested in going
> > > > > >water-based just to cut down the fumes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Terry Farrell
> > > > > >
> > > > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > > > >From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
> > > > > >To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > > > >Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 3:57 PM
> > > > > >Subject: Re: Refinishing - Stripping & Stain
> > > > > Uneveness
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Terry,
> > > > > > > You can stain, sure, but start
> > with an
> > > > > anneline or a water based
> > > > > > > dye first. That will help make the color
> > much
> > > > > more even.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Greg
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > At 03:23 PM 4/26/2003, you wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >Refinishing question. I started stripping
> > a
> > > > > piano - the typical reddish
> > > > > > > >stained mahogany. The finish was
> > original. I
> > > > > have always used chemical
> > > > > > > >strippers before but I am trying scraping
> > this
> > > > > time. The scraping
> > > > > > seems to
> > > > > > > >go easy and well, except that you end up
> > with
> > > > > some areas of stain largely
> > > > > > > >removed and some areas remaining,
> > resulting in
> > > > > a blotchy appearance. I
> > > > > > > >have sanded, and that helps a little, but
> > it is
> > > > > still blotchy and sanding
> > > > > > > >is tough because the sandpaper just loads
> > up in
> > > > > three seconds flat.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >My guess is that when I re-stain (will be
> > going
> > > > > with a similar color)
> > > > > > some
> > > > > > > >blotchyness will remain. Using chemical
> > > > > strippers in the past has yielded
> > > > > > > >fairly even-colored wood to work with -
> > so I
> > > > > don't really know what will
> > > > > > > >happen if the blotchy color is stained.
> > Anyone
> > > > > with any experience with
> > > > > > > >this? Recommendations? Thanks.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >Terry Farrell
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > > > > > > >pianotech list info:
> > > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Greg Newell
> > > > > > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> >
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > -------
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > > > > > > pianotech list info:
> > > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
> > >_______________________________________________
> > > > > >pianotech list info:
> > > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > >
> > > > > Greg Newell
> > > > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> > > > > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > > > > pianotech list info:
> > > > > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >__________________________________
> >
>=== message truncated ===
>
>
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>_______________________________________________
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Greg Newell
Greg's piano Forté
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
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