keyframe bedding

[David Love]

I don't think you're missing anything.  You can do it that way too, if you
want.  I find my method more controllable and easier. 

David Love
davidlovepianos@earthlink.net


> [Original Message]
> From: Avery Todd <avery@ev1.net>
> To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>; <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>
> Date: 4/29/2003 5:46:20 PM
> Subject: RE: keyframe bedding
>
> David,
>
> Am I missing something? Why not just turn up the "tuning pin" bedding 
> screws little by
> little, while tapping on them with your palm, until you hear a knocking?
Do 
> it on all of
> them, then go back and turn them down just enough to stop the knocking. 
> With the
> cheek blocks screwed in, of course. :-)
>
> Avery
>
> At 05:25 PM 04/29/03 -0700, you wrote:
> >On a Steinway the bedding should be done with the cheek blocks screwed 
> >down.  That may solve your problem.  If the block bears down to much and 
> >restricts the use of the una corda pedal you can shim the front of the 
> >cheek block with some card stock.  You may notice that the front of the 
> >blocks are already shimmed, many are.  A simple way to check the bedding 
> >is to press on the glide screws with your wrench and you will see the
keys 
> >dip slightly if the glide is not bedded.  First raise all the glides so 
> >you get some movement with each one.  Then, starting from the middle 
> >working out, wedge your hand up underneath between the pinblock and the 
> >wrench which is resting on top of the glide bolt , and by cupping your 
> >hand you can flex the key bed downward.  You will see the keys dip 
> >slightly.  You can put a Jaras leveler on the white keys if you have one 
> >which will make it easier to see&nbs!
> >p;movement.  When the movement stops go to the next one.  Go back
through 
> >again to double check.  It's a lot faster than sliding paper around and
it 
> >works just fine.  You should be able to bed the key frame in a few
minutes.
> >
> >David Love
> ><mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>davidlovepianos@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: <mailto:hullfam5@yahoo.com>Bob Hull
> >>To: <mailto:pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org
> >>Sent: 4/29/2003 4:34:51 PM
> >>Subject: keyframe bedding
> >>
> >>Dear List,
> >>I'm working on a Steinway M regulation and on bedding the keyframe.
(Not 
> >>the same one I had a question on about a month ago.) I thought I had 
> >>accomplished this already- but the knocking on the bass end has
returned 
> >>during the process of the other regulation steps.  I'm wondering if
when 
> >>I regulated the balance rail studs it came back. I used the sliding
paper 
> >>method and felt good about the results.  So, as I found this knocking I 
> >>returned to the keybedding and I did some more sanding on the bottom of 
> >>the front rail but no progress seems to be coming about - the bass end 
> >>still knocks when you tap on it.  Both ends of the frame knock when 
> >>tapped, but the treble stops when you put the cheek block on, but the 
> >>bass end still knocks.  I measured the thickness of the front rail on 
> >>both ends and the middle.  Bass end is .836; middle of front rail is
.881 
> >>and treble end is .850 or .860.  I know the keybed is crowne! ! d up in 
> >>the middle and the keyframe is reverse crowned.   Here's my question:
> >>What would you think of painting a layer of epoxy on the bottom of the 
> >>bass end of the rail to thicken it rather than sanding/thinning the
whole 
> >>rest of the rail until that knocking went away? (The knocking begins 
> >>about 1 octave from the bass end.)
> >>Also, with this crowned/reverse crown between keyframe and keybed
should 
> >>the testing of the bedding be always done with cheek blocks screwed in?
> >>One other question to drown you with - do you reflect the crowned
keybed 
> >>in the key leveling?  I have heard yes and no on this.
> >>Thanks.
> >>Bob Hull
> >>
> >>
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