Broken Hammer Return Springs

[Isaac sur Noos]

A piece of piano wire make a good drill any size if you want to make a
long hole (not absolutely square  probably), and it will also work to
drill in a rail while it is installed in the piano.




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Isaac OLEG
accordeur - reparateur - concert
oleg-i@noos.fr
19 rue Jules Ferry
94400 VITRY sur SEINE
tel: 033 01 47 18 06 98
fax: 33 01 47 18 06 90
mobile: 033 06 60 42 58 77
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> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la
> part de Dave Nereson
> Envoyé : mercredi 24 décembre 2003 10:31
> À : Pianotech
> Objet : Re: Broken Hammer Return Springs
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <anrebe@zianet.com>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 9:34 AM
> Subject: Broken Hammer Return Springs
>
>
> Are repair
> > . . . . . . are repair springs the better route to take?
> I will plan on bring a drill to tap these
> > first, that rail is hardwood!
> > Andrew Anderson
> > Las Cruces, New Mexico
> > Presently Annoyed in Old Mexico
>
>     I carry two small drill bits -- one is 1/16" and the
> other 1/8", I believe -- and one or the other works for
> most small repairs involving drilling holes for small
> screws.  They have a hex shank that fits my cordless
> screwdriver.  I use the repair hammer return springs,
> drilling a hole first such that the coil of the spring can
> nestle in the "step" of the rail.  You need a screwholder
> to get that little screw started, which is usually a pain,
> but patience helps a lot.  You might substitute a Phillips
> head screw, which would be easier to get started.  I don't
> know any other way other than removing the rail, yanking
> out the old spring, poking a new spring through the hole,
> cutting a slot in the felt, and bending the spring back to
> pull it into the slot.  What a pain -- not worth it unless
> you're doing many.
>     Another option is to use a Schwander-type butt with the
> spring and loop on the butt/flange assembly, but then you
> have to remove the hammer of course and put in a new shank,
> plus the catcher and jack might not line up the same.....
>     -David Nereson, RPT
>
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