Terry, Get out your Journal reprint books (you do have them, don't you?!!:) and read Nick Gravagne's series of articles on pinblock fitting. His methods are now firmly entrenched in my shop procedures manual and guarantee a fit within 1/2 mm of the original. Regards, Stan Kroeker Registered Piano Technician Farrell wrote: > > Some good news and a question. Baldwin M grand. > > Good news: > My first home-made pinblock seems indeed to be an A-OK pinblock. I'm glad all the edges will be covered by plate and case, because I would not want to show it to anyone. The laminations are not cut very straight - inconsistent thickness - if I had more wood to work with, I would have ran the laminations through the planer - next time I will. The result is that the total pinblock thickness is 5% to 10% epoxy and the rest quarter sawn hard maple. Next one will be more wood and less epoxy, and look nice also. But this one should work quite well! > > More good news: > Epoxy-fit new block to plate flange. Too lazy to go out last night and buy paste-wax to use as release agent. Sprayed a bit of McLube mold release stuff on flange, applied epoxy to block and mushed into place. Dreamt about taking a jack-hammer to the block to remove it from the plate. Just checked it this morning and, after an initial fright upon seeing apparent attachment, a couple gentle taps with a hammer and all was well - perfect contact all along flange - and a removable pinblock. Yahoo! > > Question: > OK, so now I have new block fit to plate perfectly. I have plate fit and located to case with spacers around plate perimeter - can relocate plate perfectly. Now I need to temporarily install block and plate to locate block to case for a glue-and-dowel installation. When I temporarily install these, block will be located to plate and plate will in turn be located to case. How do I locate block to case so that I can remove plate and glue and dowel block into its proper place? I know I could do it the stein-way and just let the plate end up wherever, but I really don't want to give this piano THAT much "personality". > > The only thing I can think of is to drill on an angle through the plate, through the block and into the case at both ends of the block and locate the block with a dowel. I know I could do it with some shims between block and case sides and stretcher, but I fear you still might have enough play in such an arrangement and end up with a less than perfect pinblock location. > > Any other great ideas? Or just get the drill out and run a dowel through the whole mess and move on with it? > > Thanks. > > Terry Farrell > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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