Terry said: "I have two open-face pinblocks coming up in my shop - a Knabe and a = Bechstein. I hadn't decided quite how to re-do the pinblocks. I was = thinking that I might pop the top veneer off, plug with high-quality = plugs set in epoxy, and then put a new veneer on the top. Anyone care to = argue one way or another regarding time required to do this compared to = a complete new block and regarding the quality of the final outcome? = Thanks Terry Farrell Terry, I do this on a regular basis and especially with the weird pinblocks that are part of the "stretcher", etc. I don't take the veneer off, I just plug and put more veneer on top of it, (usually birdseye maple). I have a special "fixture" that allows me to do the plug boring and the tuning pin boring in the piano. I use 3/4" plugs so that they interlock. Makes for a really sturdy pinblock. I cut my own plugs, usually out of Delignet, but any good quality pinblock scraps will work. However, make sure you use all of the same kind for each job. I've been inserting the plugs with Weldwood glue, not epoxy. Less messy and almost a goof proof. I also have a special "fixture to cut a couple of slits down the side of each plug, for escapement of the excess glue/air. To date I've probably done about a dozen this way. The oldest one was done 20 years ago and still real nice pin feel. Although, it takes more time to do it this way, it's a whole lot less frustrating and painstaking compared to duplicating multi-level pinblocks or figuring out how to splice a new pinblock into a slanted one that is part of the case! For standard type pinblocks, I just do it like everyone else, but for the really goofy stuff, this is the way to go, IMHO!<G> Best Regards, Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) Captain, Tool Police Squares Are I
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