agraffe reaming

[Crashvalve@aol.com]

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For making the agraffe hole wall cylindrical (meaning how it was before=20
string wear) I use several "D" bit reamers approx 1.5 inch long in whatever=20=
size or=20
two sizes is next larger than the original agraffe hole. (too lazy to go and=
=20
mike them) I get these as drill rod, and grind a 20 or so degree point on th=
e=20
end. The sharp edge where the angle meets the cylindrical edge of the=20
reamer/drill rod is what does the cutting. The end result is a neatly re-siz=
ed hole=20
with better geometry. You could use lubricant to cut but I don't, and hand=20
guiding seems to allow the bit to align itself.
BY the way, any machinist coud easily make one or two agraffes in odd sizes=20
like M&H using a thread die on free-cut brass rod in the lathe, and mill=20
shoulders when done. $45 seems a little pricey=20
David Love wrote:
>
> I typically ream agraffes when either installing new ones or reconstitutin=
g
> old ones.=A0 Periodically, the holes are not large enough to accommodate t=
he
> small reamer that I got from (Pianotech?) some time ago.=A0 I don't wish t=
o
> enlarge the hole.=A0 Any one have suggestions about the best way to dress=20=
the
> countersink in this case.

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