Pinblock Separation Questions

Rob Goodale rrg@unlv.nevada.edu
Thu, 2 Oct 2003 11:16:24 -0700


This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
Not sure about this particular piano but I have repaired several block =
separations like this successfully.  The procedure is relatively =
straight forward and follows along what you suggest.  I see no reason =
why placement of the back posts should be relevent, if they do extend =
through it will add just that more strenth to the repair.  My general =
method is as follows:  Reduce the tension off the piano.  Remove the =
plate screws across the top, (above the tuning pins).  If there are any =
particularly bad areas that extend into other areas, remove some screws =
there as well if you are able to get to them.  With a long bit drill a =
hole through the screw holes extending all the way through the back side =
of the piano.  Pour epoxy down the separation through the top, (West =
System from Pianotek comes to mind).  Insert long carriage bolts through =
the holes from the back of the piano so that the rounded end will fit =
smooth against the back of the piano.  Attach a washer and nut to the =
plate side and tighten until the separation closes and the bolts are =
tight.  They will remain there permanently in place of the original =
plate screws.  Let the piano sit 24 hours to allow the epoxy to =
completely cure.  Pull the tension back up and tune the piano.  The =
repair should be permanent.  Note that instead of carriage bolts =
standard machine bolts with a washer may be used but you should consider =
countersinking them on the back side so that they will not stick out.  =
The sole purpose of this is to prevent them from gouging a wall behind =
the piano.

Rob Goodale, RPT
Las Begas, NV

  I just looked at a late 1980s Baldwin studio, serial #1417324, style =
#4023 (model number?), with a pinblock separating from the back assembly =
(about a quarter-inch separation). The piano has 3 backposts, but the =
back assembly is covered with veneers. Does anyone know if the backposts =
on these pianos extend to the top of the back assembly (top of back =
assembly also covered with veneers - yes, I will be able to tell when I =
yank these veneers off - but was curious before I get into it). Any =
knowledge of this Del? The three top plate screws are centered over the =
three post centerlines, so I suspect they may extend up to the top.

  The couple times I have done this repair has been with older =
instruments where the backposts did extent to the top - and of course I =
through-bolted through them. If, by chance, this is a piano - like some =
Kimballs - where the backposts terminate at the base of the top back =
assembly (about at the pinblock bottom), has anyone done this type of =
repair on that design? I see no evidence that the rear portion of the =
upper back assembly has moved - appears that only the pinblock has =
moved, so I suppose it would be just fine to epoxy and through-bolt to =
the back of this design. Anyone aware of any pitfalls I might not be =
seeing here?

  Also, any non-bionic technician willing to share how many hours they =
have taken to do a repair like this - start to finish, not including =
pitch adjustments and tuning (just clamping, drilling, bonding, bolting =
and cleanup)?

  Thanks
---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/5d/8d/33/34/attachment.htm

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--



This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC