The issue of "how much back weight" is interesting. It's similar to the question of how much weight to use when measuring key dip. Can there really be that much more force if the weight is hung behind the backcheck rather than in front of it? Surely it's proportional to the distance of the weight to the balance rail -- Years ago, I noticed that the clip on lead weights would raise the front of the key, if put on the check on the backside. Also, if the weight is put on the front side and the weight is too much, it will do the same thing. Then, the suppliers made these weights in sets of 52. (really a dumb idea, since we need to do ALL of the keys (88)!) I found that the lead weights from Tuners were made of the same material as wheel weights, whereas the weights from APSCO were pure lead! The ones from Tuners weigh 72 grams each. The weights from APSCO weigh 90 grams each. Since I have both sets, I put the lighter ones on the sharps and the heavier ones on the naturals. I've found this works very well. I always put the weights facing toward me. The only down side to this, is that the lead leaves marks on the leather, so I don't surface the check leather until after I've leveled the keys. Then I blow off any residual and surface. Because the "D" keys are so huge, in length and mass, I don't think it makes a wit which way you put the weights as the 90 gram weights just varily hold the key down, anyway. The true solution would be to have a weight that fits onto the capstan and has the same weight as the top action down weight. Unfortunately, no one makes such a thing and I don't have the time, nor inclination to do it.<G> I'll just suffer along with the ones I have. Best Regards, Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) Captain, Tool Police Squares Are I
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