Fw: Make a soundboard--Measurements

[Michael Gamble]

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Hello Dale
Just returned from my mini-marathon Harpsichord tuning - two =
Harpsichords in 10 minutes tonight - Emanuelle took the opera so slow =
they had to make up the deficit by cutting down the interval time. Yuk! =
And one  Harpsichord had gone up to A=3D445 so had to bring it down AND =
check the Conductors' Harpsichord as well. Now that's shifting it I'd =
say!
Thanks for the info on soundboard measurement proceedure. I'm tired =
already. Look forward to the next exciting instalment but have signed =
myself off this site for a week since we're away on holiday as from =
today  ;-)
Regards
Michael G (UK)

----- Original Message -----=20
From: Erwinspiano@aol.com=20
To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 4:37 PM
Subject: Make a soundboard--Measurements


In a message dated 10/23/2003 11:19:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time, =
michael@gambles.fsnet.co.uk writes:
  Hello RicB
  It would be very important to set down the criteria for measurement of
  soundboards. That must be the starting point. If everyone who wants to
  partake in this research takes all the stipulated points for =
measurements
  then there might be some realistic steps taken. Be sure to make the =
names of
  these points international!..;-)
  Regards
  Michael G (UK)
  -----=20
     Michael, Ric Glenn
   Well, Michael, I don't know if you'd call it research. List you =
proposed on measuring things & observations are really probably already =
outlined in the journal & are just some of the measurements all =
soundboard installers use.=20
  I.E. Measuring string heights, Plate height, bass & treble 88, mark =
the front corner of the plate & measure the distance fore & aft in mm to =
the case side. These locate the plate. Note any odd things about the =
bridges. I.E. inadequate side bearings, strings not going straight to =
the hitch pins, funky notching angels you don't wish to duplicate. =
Measure down to the top of the plate at the bosses. This allows you to =
set the height of you dowels later if you use them.
  Measure the string scale. If funky after unstringing measure string =
lengths & crunch the no.s. Often note 88 is too short for decent =
tensions in the last section. You may want to move the bridge as on many =
older 1800s S&S grands.
   Note the angle of the bridge top to the board. I don't often do this =
but every piece of info can be helpful.
   (Observation)Look at the thickness of the board thru the action =
cavity at the belly rail & see how it tapers. (Mental note)
  Observation) Any crown left any bearing left. Does the bearing string =
still touch the bridge now the strings are removed. is the bridge below =
the string plane?
  Pull the plate. Pull the bridge pins. make a GOOD pattern noting hole =
side notch cut. Use a bridge pin bit drilled straight down thru the =
bridge to locate the mylar pattern. Place mylar (I use 10 mil) over =
bridge and tap no. 6 pin thru mylar. It make a cleaner hole than =
drilling thru it.
  I always measure at least first and last string lengths on the long =
bridge & bass bridge.=20
   Very important: Bridge location markers.
   I do this 2 ways. I drill straight down. straight is very important =
thru the top of the bridge at not 88 with a 3/16 bit and thru the board =
& into the belly rail. This will help locate the top of the bridge very =
precisely. I also do the same in the tenor end, drilling into a beam if =
possible. I also take direct measurements with a metric ruler to the =
side of the case at each end of each bridge.=20
  I also measure the distance from the no. 88  bridge pin hole to the =
side of the case & stretcher. This eliminates the possibility of getting =
pattern located  wrong. There are other ways. Rebuilders please chime =
in.
   Drill out dowels remove treble cap screws. Now the fun part. It's =
time to knock the board out
   Any body tired yet? More later. going to work
  Later--Dale
 =20

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