Tightening key bushings

[Isaac sur Noos]

Using the good precise cauls (from Spurlock or Jahnn) and allowing the
key to dry enough 24 hours - avoid also a lot of undue key easing,
Easing made too early get too large when dry.

The sizing cauls are also a must to get consistent results.

moisture swell back the wood a tad generally the special tool works,
but I don't like much the idea.  tapping or massaging the mortise
close it a tad also.


Isaac OLEG

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la
> part de Richard Brekne
> Envoyé : lundi 9 février 2004 22:22
> À : Pianotech
> Objet : Re: Tightening key bushings
>
>
> Hi Mike
>
> Same basic principle... just a little less destructive.
> I've also seen
> guys inserting needles and breaking them off  so as too
> leave them there
> implanted as it were. Dont see the need myself but just so.
> If you have
> gotten beyond needing what little extra tightness this can
> get you, then
> you need to ease off on your easing technique so as to
> avoid the problem
> in the first place. Changing an isolated bushing is a
> quickie anyways.
>
> Cheers
> RicB
>
>
>
> Michael Gamble wrote:
>
> >Hello List and RicB
> >I've often come across keys which have been "knifed" open
> along side the
> >bushings and the new slot thus made shimmed.... Also there
> is a special tool
> >extant with a sort of inverted "W" on one side of the
> metal block. On the
> >other side it is flat. The object is to place the key,
> ivory down, on a
> >solid bench, insert the middle of this "W" in the bushed
> slot and then bash
> >the other side of the block. Sounds a bit crude - don't
> even know whether it
> >works or not - but it's available........
> >Michael G (UK)
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> >
>
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