> you're left with a hole lined with Alox or garnet particles of > whatever size (80 grit? 100, 150?) free to move and function as a > lapping compound. I don't think so. Grinding metal generally requires a fair bit of back-and-forth motion. The amount of pin turning that would occur with a reasonably skilled tuner will barely even score the surface. Really, it is not an issue. Sandpaper shimming is quite a reasonable approach. I generally use 120 grit paper-backed aluminum oxide. Terry Farrell > At 1:42 PM -0600 11/16/04, Barbara Richmond wrote: > >So, I was wondering if I removed those few spinning pins and > >carefully applied the CA, would I get more holding power? How long > >should I wait before re-inserting the pins? > > You didn't mention whether the tuning pins had been driven already. > That's my first remedy. If you've got an 1/8" below the string where > it leaves the coil and the plate, make that 0" (plus a smidge) and > the other end of the tuning pin will be 1/8" into a part of the > tuning pin hole which has never done any work before. It requires > blocking up under the pinblock, a carpenter's hammer and tuning pin > setting tool ( a small handle stuck into a head with a spring-loaded > punch to hold onto the pins so they don't jump too badly when hit), > plus a significant rough tuning. > > I've never used sandpaper to shim with, figuring that after a while, > under the pressure the paper backing will disintegrate and then > you're left with a hole lined with Alox or garnet particles of > whatever size (80 grit? 100, 150?) free to move and function as a > lapping compound. Gross Encounters of the Loose Kind. > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
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