Spinet horizontal side separation

Terry terry@farrellpiano.com
Tue, 15 Feb 2005 13:25:18 -0500


This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
"We discovered the problems when we tried to move the piano away from =
the wall, but only the top half moved."

Good golly man, this is priceless. Is there video available? I wish I =
could have been there!  ROFL!

"My first reaction was to send it to the dump."

I'm sure some wise person has said: "trust your instincts!" (Just had to =
say that. ;-)

"The case sides are two parts: a short vertical side from floor to the =
bottom of the keydesk..."

I trust you mean keybed?

"...and horizontal sides from the keydesk to the top and from the back =
to the front of the keyslip."

Horizontal sides? This is where you loose me. How can a side be =
horizontal? Sounds more like a top or bottom. Got a photo? I just can't =
picture what you are describing. I know that some of those older Wurlies =
had some pretty bizarre cases.

If we are talking about some normal-ish-type sides, bonding them back in =
position with epoxy can be a good approach. I have done this using pipe =
clamps. Don't worry about bending the clamps because with epoxy bonding, =
you only need to hold the thing in position - you don't really need any =
clamping pressure for the epoxy's sake - only enough to place and hold =
the part in position.

I'd be a bit nervous about epoxying sides onto a piano in someone's home =
- no doubt it can be done, but I don't think I would want to do it  - =
just too much chance for a big expensive mess.

Terry Farrell


> Hello list.=20
>=20
> I need some advice on an unusual (for me) repair.  New
> customer called about a piano that came with the house
> they just purchased.  It is a 1954 Wurlitzer spinet
> with naugahyde top and sides.  The case sides are two
> parts: a short vertical side from floor to the bottom
> of the keydesk, and horizontal sides from the keydesk
> to the top and from the back to the front of the
> keyslip. =20
>=20
> The glue joints on both of the upper, horizontal sides
> have separated from the back frame.  The entire
> keyboard and action are floating, resting on top of
> the lower sides, which appear to remain solidly glued,
> and the spindly little spinet legs in front.
>=20
> We discovered the problems when we tried to move the
> piano away from the wall, but only the top half moved.
>=20
>=20
> My first reaction was to send it to the dump.  But
> closer inspection revealed a very clean instrument,
> with excellent pinblock and bridge condition, clean
> felt, and excellent case appearance.  The only thing
> wrong with it is the case separation. =20
>=20
> I have read discussions in the archives about
> spreading the sides, inserting epoxy, and using pipe
> clamps to reattach the sides to the back.  I think
> folks have also used pipe clamps across the front to
> keep the sides parallel.  Do I need to worry about
> this if the keydesk is still holding the sides
> together in front? =20
>=20
> I intend to bid doing the work in the client's home,
> since the cost of a move to/from my shop would
> probably exceed the value of the instrument, combined
> with the actual repair. =20
>=20
> Please help me with my check list:
>=20
> 1. Gather long clamps and other heavy duty tools, work
> table, (tilter?)
> 2. Spread double layer dropcloth (fabric over plastic)
> to catch excess epoxy.
> 3. Remove action, any removable case parts. Keys.
> Keyframe?
> 4. Slide sides and keydesk forward, away from
> remainder of piano and sand off old glue from sides
> and back.
> 5. Paint on very thin epoxy to both surfaces, letting
> it soak in.
> 6. Slide the sides back on and squeeze in thick epoxy
> pastry-bag style?  Push it in with a thin blade?
> Other?
> 7. Pad the naugahyde sides with 2x4 blocks and clamp
> across the back with three or four pipe clamps.
> 8. Clean up and leave.
> 9. Come back next day and remove clamps, reinstall
> action, basic regulation as needed.
>=20
> Did I forget anything?  Do I need deep-reach pipe
> clamps?  Should I use wedge-shaped 2x4 blocks to
> compensate for pipe clamp arching? Are 3/4 inch pipe
> clamps sufficient? Am I nuts for even thinking about
> it, or is this "something we do every day, ma'am"?
>=20
> 8 hours total? 4? 16?
>=20
> Any tricks for alignment? =20
>=20
> Thanks,=20
> Greg Graham
> Graham Piano Service
> Brodheadsville, PA
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> __________________________________=20
> Do you Yahoo!?=20
> Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we.=20
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
> _______________________________________________
> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
> 
---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/00/94/34/5a/attachment.htm

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--



This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC