TiteBond III reprise

[Joe Garrett]

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Michael,
Yes the nozzle is a pain in the butt! However, I've devised a way of =
keeping it working. (it's still the pits if you are trying to "force" =
some glue into a small crack! My answer to that problem, is to transfer =
some to a cheapie Elmers glue bottle. the little one with the screw =
nozzle.)
Oh, I digress. The method I have is: A piece of scrap wood with a 1/2" =
hole drilled in it. The nozzle fits snuggly into the hole, thus keeping =
the glue "at the tip". When applying the glue, I have a wet rag setting =
in a plastic lid, on the bench and I close the tip by pushing down on =
the rag and wiping. This keeps the glue tip clear, thus avoiding the =
"breaking" problem!<G>
Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Michael Gamble=20
  To: Joe Garrett ; pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 8:35 AM
  Subject: Re: TiteBond III reprise


  Hello Joe
  Some little girl sat on my boys' violin and smashed it to bits. I took =
the bits home in a shopping bag. A few months later I thought I'd use my =
newly acquired Tite Bond to stick it together. He now prefers it to a =
replacement violin which I bought for a couple of 100 =A3 or more. Now =
that's Tite Bond for you - but it hasn't a Mk 1, or 2, or 3, it's called =
Original Wood Glue and comes in a 8fl. oz plastic bottle with a very =
questionable nozzle (which I managed to pull off and break. Darn it!)
  Regards
  Michael G.(UK)
    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: Joe Garrett=20
    To: pianotech=20
    Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 3:49 PM
    Subject: TiteBond III reprise


    After several months of using TiteBond III, I'm happy to report that =
it is now my glue of choice on those repairs that I don't/expect to ever =
have to take apart!=20
    Some of the properties I like: 1. It doesn't stain my fingers like =
TiteBond II. 2. It has a longer "working time" than TiteBond II. 3. It =
doesn't clog up sanding devices as badly as either TiteBond or TiteBond =
II. 4. It dries to a color that is less conspicuous. (Soundboard glue-up =
comes to mind.) 5. It is really strong!
    The only down-side that I've found, is that it is best to let it =
cure a full 24-36 hours before attempting to put major stress on the =
joint, such as planing, etc.
    For those of you who haven't tried it, I do recommend it.
    Best Regards,
    Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
    Captain, Tool Police
    Squares R I
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