Removing tuning pins with the Milwaukee Drill

[gordon stelter]

I use cheapo crap drills, or great old ones from yard
sales or the used tool store. I see no need to spend
hundreds on something, then subject it to this
punishment. 
     G 

--- Joe Garrett <joegarrett@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Terry Peterson said: "I also would like to get
> opinions as to how fast, slow to remove them to 
> avoid over-heating and/or scortching the pin block.
> I know the pins WILL get 
> hot no matter what, (I tested this by using the very
> lowest rpm possible 
> without stalling) but it seems to me that the main
> thing to avoid is 
> "spinning" the pin in place when/if it stops rising
> outward during removal. 
> I try to use lowest rpms to remove each pin, then
> releasing trigger when 
> it's almost out, letting the drill slow to a stop at
> which point the pin 
> drops out...ideally. thoughts?
> 
> Terry,
> An interesting experiment: 1. Remove a tuning pin
> with a Brace and Bit; immediately test it for heat.
> (it will be hottern' hell a first touch.) 2. Remove
> a tuning pin with a Reversible Drill as slow as it
> will go. Test it for heat. (it will be hot and
> getting hotter.) 3. Remove a tuning pin with a
> Reversible drill running at/or around 600 RPM. Test
> it for heat. (It will only be warm, but will heat up
> rapidly as you hold it.DAMHIK!<G>) This phenomenon
> is kinda like Microwaving a spud.<G> The answer is
> spin them out as fast as you feel comfortable with.
> I usually remove a whole set in around 15-20
> minutes, using my 40 year old Wen Reversible
> Drill.<G>
> (It too, will spin the shop, if'n ya ain't careful!)
> Regards,
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain, Tool Police
> Squares R I



	
		
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