Joe, So, does this imply that the friction that generates the heat simply doesn't have enough time to build up, vs. the slow removal, which may be slow, but long and drawn out, consequently producing more heat? Interesting...... Also, tried to email you about the keytop thing, but got rejected. Anyway, I'll await receiving the keytop being sent to me first, and if it doesn't work, I'll let you know. And, thanks. Respectfully, William R. Monroe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net> To: "pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 9:12 PM Subject: Removing tuning pins with the Milwaukee Drill Terry Peterson said: "I also would like to get opinions as to how fast, slow to remove them to avoid over-heating and/or scortching the pin block. I know the pins WILL get hot no matter what, (I tested this by using the very lowest rpm possible without stalling) but it seems to me that the main thing to avoid is "spinning" the pin in place when/if it stops rising outward during removal. I try to use lowest rpms to remove each pin, then releasing trigger when it's almost out, letting the drill slow to a stop at which point the pin drops out...ideally. thoughts? Terry, An interesting experiment: 1. Remove a tuning pin with a Brace and Bit; immediately test it for heat. (it will be hottern' hell a first touch.) 2. Remove a tuning pin with a Reversible Drill as slow as it will go. Test it for heat. (it will be hot and getting hotter.) 3. Remove a tuning pin with a Reversible drill running at/or around 600 RPM. Test it for heat. (It will only be warm, but will heat up rapidly as you hold it.DAMHIK!<G>) This phenomenon is kinda like Microwaving a spud.<G> The answer is spin them out as fast as you feel comfortable with. I usually remove a whole set in around 15-20 minutes, using my 40 year old Wen Reversible Drill.<G> (It too, will spin the shop, if'n ya ain't careful!) Regards, Joe Garrett, R.P.T. Captain, Tool Police Squares R I
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