This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment =20 Jeannie: =20 This is a post I put on the list a year or two ago and outlines what I = use. The only downside of the McWhorter Industries Product (which I bought a gallon of and will probably last me a lifetime) is that it thins with = Xylene which a lot of people don't like to use. I put a small amount in an = empty plastic film canister which I can seal with a cap if I don't use it all. = It only takes a few drops of Xylene to thin it in that quantity to the consistency of runny hot hide glue. Set the canister in a tray of some = type so that if it tips over it doesn't get all over the place. The Trefz = PDF thins with Mineral Spirits, I think. A high grade varnish would = probably work as well. =20 =20 For those who followed the PDF thread awhile back and are interested in = just what it is and how you might get it, the following information may be of = use and is a supplement to the information already provided by Joe Garrett. =20 Trefz Pin Driving Fluid is, apparently, a phenolic resin without the addition of any of the typical dryers (solvents) added by various manufacturers to create their own products. In other words, it is the = raw material from which certain types of varnishes are made. Rodda paint in Oregon carries such a product known as 1067-S1. If you live in Oregon = or Washington you can buy the product from a Rodda Paint dealer for about $15.00 per gallon. =20 =20 Rodda Paint gets the product from a company called McWhorter = Technologies, Inc., in Carpentersville, IL 60110, 1-888-CALL-MWT. It is known as = H354B, Product code 207 1196, Product Name Duramac 207-1196. =20 If you contact McWhorter, you might find out which companies in your = area purchase the raw material for production and buy it before they add = their own formula of solvents. =20 =20 FYI Schaff still sells Trefz Pin Driving Fluid in 4oz bottles. They do = not list it in their catalogue, but it is available upon request. =20 David Love =20 David Love davidlovepianos@comcast.net=20 =20 -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On = Behalf Of Jeannie Grassi Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 7:15 PM To: 'Pianotech' Subject: RE: Smokin! was removing wrest pins from the piano =20 Hi David, What are you using for pin driving fluid? I've used what Joe Garrett suggests, but it's not available anymore. Looking for new ideas. = Thanks, jeannie =20 Jeannie Grassi, RPT Assistant Editor, Piano Technicians Journal mailto:jcgrassi@earthlink.net =20 -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On = Behalf Of David Love Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 3:20 PM To: tune4u@earthlink.net; 'Pianotech' Subject: RE: Smokin! was removing wrest pins from the piano =20 My only concern with burning the holes is that I sometimes wonder if = that popping pin syndrome isn't in part due to burning the inside of the hole when removing the pins. That's why I've gotten back to reaming with = either a drill bit or a reamer to try and get to some fresh wood. Better to replace or replug the block, of course, but sometimes it's not in the budget. Reaming to a larger size and using the lo-torque tuning pins = with some pin driving fluid seems to keep the rendering under control. On = most grands unless it's a real budget job, I always replace the block. On uprights, pinblock removal is a bit more of a hassle. Any nice = suggestions for that btw? =20 David Love davidlovepianos@comcast.net=20 =20 -----Original Message----- From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On = Behalf Of Alan Barnard Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 2:50 PM To: Pianotech Subject: Smokin! was removing wrest pins from the piano =20 When I am restringing, it is generally an old piano with rusty thunky strings and a sloppy sloppy block. Therefore, I am generally replacing = 2/0 pins with 4/0.=20 =20 I use a 1/2 inch drive that has the impact drill feature which I set to "on" which, in my warped little mind, seems to work like jerk tuning to overcome resistance. =20 I don't spin it out fast enough to repeat the error of Mrs. O'Leary's = cow, but neither do I worry excessively about heat or even mild scorching (or scroching, which I first typed and is a funnier word). =20 My unscientific, possibly wacko, theory is that with the upsizing of my order, slight overcooking isn't going to be a problem. In my experience, = it has not. =20 I am in my foxhole: Fire away ... =20 Alan Barnard Salem, Missouri =20 =20 > [Original Message] > From: Avery Todd <avery1@houston.rr.com> > To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> > Date: 09/05/2005 3:50:30 PM > Subject: Re:removing wrest pins from the piano - my way! > > But I thought it was a slow removal like this that created the heat = that > we don't want????? > > Avery > =20 =20 _______________________________________________ pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives =20 =20 _______________________________________________ pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives =20 =20 _______________________________________________ pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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