worn-to-the-wood hammers

[Joe Garrett]

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Tom asked: "When hammer felt is worn through to the wood, what can be =
done, short of=20
replacing the hammers with new ones, to restore some semblance of tone =
quality?   =20
I seem to remember a thread years ago on this...covering the hammers =
with=20
leather of some sort.   Didn't some older square grands have leather =
covered=20
hammers?   What type of leather?

In this case, the situation goes beyond 'tone quality';   the hammers in =

octave 7, being shorter by virtue of there being less felt at the strike =
point,=20
are overstriking and hitting the capo, resulting in practically no sound =

whatsoever.   I think covering them with the proper material would at =
least allow the=20
hammers to hit the strings.   This is an old Kimball owned by a family =
on a=20
budget, and not a candidate for replacing the set of hammers.=20

Thanks in advance for your advice,"

Tom,
As a great percentage of my clients are much like what you describe, =
I've had good success with "Buckskinning" the hammers in the Upper =
Treble. Although the sound is a bit subdued, it is usually adequate and =
the customers appreciate your attempts at making "their baby" last a few =
more years before Major work is needed.
The way I do it, (which I've gleaned from doing Square Grands all these =
years.), is to "shape" the hammer felt so that the hammer is very =
pointed, but still has "some" felt left on the sides. Cut Real Buckskin =
into strips of the appropriate width. Then, measure how long each strip =
needs to be for each individual hammer, (keep them in order). Oh, Test =
the Buckskin to see which way it wants to stretch uniformly. The process =
requires Stretching of the Buckskin, so measure a bit on the short side. =
The area that gets the Hot Hide Glue is just below the shoulder. Glue =
the strip on the front shoulder first and allow to set up, (usually 3-4 =
hours). Then, Stretch the Buckskin over the strike point and down to the =
other shoulder. Hold the strip in place, (hand/fingers just above the =
shoulder) and apply Hot Hide Glue to the area just below that shoulder. =
Put a spring clamp on, to hold it "in tension", and allow to set up.=20
If you've done it right, there will be very little trimming to be done. =
I do like to trim the "glued" area in a bevel that tapers to the surface =
of the hammer felt. This is much easier to do, than to explain. I would =
suggest trying a few "samples" on olde reject hammers to get the "feel" =
of how this is done.
The Buckskin should be flexible and about the thickness of Upright =
Backcatch leather. Go thinner as you get closer to note 88. Although the =
sound is somewhat subdued, compared to it's neighbors, it is an =
acceptable sound. Do Not Try To Voice!!! DAMHIK!!<G>
BTW, the reason so many Square Grands had leather, was NOT because the =
hammers were worn out. Back in those days, Musicians hated the Bright =
Clangy sound of the modern piano, (in the mid/upper treble area). I =
choose to think that most people, of that past era, had less noise to =
contend with and had less hearing loss. Also, they were more into the =
soft subtleties of music, than our era(s) are. I think it had to do with =
the basic "ease of living", (w/o as much stress), that we don't truly =
have. At least, that's my take on that phenomenon.<G>=20
Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I
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