I sent this post earlier with a photo attached but it seems that it is held up in the filters. I removed the attachment to get it through in a timely manner. This post will crop up later with the photo... meanwhile.... ~~~~~~~~~ I install assist springs on the underlevers on anything 5'7" and above when doing damper work. It was wishful thinking/oversight not to install them. A 1962 M in the shop received them in the reconditioning and damping improved. No need to cut a groove in the wood, glue on a block of felt and slice it to hold the spring. Just be mindful of the proximity of the upstop rail, you don't want the spring to catch. A few years ago, I replaced the damper felt on a '20's B. There were no springs...I figured...must be OK if S&S says so. Well, it wasn't, insufficient damping. Yanked out all the dampers. Removed the tray and installed springs with the felt blocks. Problem solved. Same scenario on a "rebuilt" 7' Baldwin recently. Consider replacing the guide bushings as well. As far as the longer underlever, the Renner USA install brochure outlines how to locate the pivot pins to duplicate the original execution. Things I look for is the position of the top flange under the guide rail and that the key lifts the damper to horizontal (parallel to keybed). I also like to place the pivot pins along the center pin line. Although, Don M. pointed out, tests indicated that an offset pivot was better for half-pedalling. A while ago I posted a nifty retro-fit for the pitman which required no drilling. Attached is a photo of the parts. The rod is cut from an old pedal rod. The blocks are glued to the tray bottom and trap lever and positioned for the travel. No need to remove the felt bushing in the keybed. No guess work on drilling for pins in the ends of a dowel. The rod is cut to a length such that when combined with the blocks, the dimension equals the old pitman length plus leather rests. Just remove pitman, scrape off leather and install...simple. -- Regards, Jon Page
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