wurlitzer(chinese) grand

[Andrew and Rebeca Anderson]

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
Richard,
I've had a Samick Wurly, and for Samicks the problem is the pinning 
of the under-lever flanges.  Some of the wires needed improved 
bending to line up with the upper 'tray' .  Lubing with CLP was not 
adequate.  I did some reaming and some heating up with a soldering 
iron.  Both worked equally well for the period of time I owned 
it.  BTW the seizing up of the centers increased with 
usage.  Brand-new, there was no problem.
The sostenuto system needed adjusting too, the tests mentioned are excellent.

Good luck,
Andrew Anderson

At 12:51 PM 1/26/2006, you wrote:
>In a message dated 1/26/2006 6:08:42 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
>richard.ucci@att.net writes:
>Help me out here. New Wurly 5' grand. Several dampers in tenor 
>section are getting hung up. When offending key is played without 
>using sustain pedal -no problem.
>Depress pedal by itself and damper does not return to rest on 
>strings. Sostenuto pedal is working correctly , can't determime if 
>the tab is brushing against it or not,  have pulled damper out and 
>lubed rail bushing, flanges do not seem to be slow. I can't recall 
>if they are weighted .
>
>Richard,
>
>Some diagnosis can be done without removing the action. Quick test: 
>Depress damper pedal and release. Lightly push down on hung damper 
>head. If it returns with a light snap or won't go down, the 
>sostenuto tab is rising past the sostenuto rail, probably because 
>the damper PEDAL stop (not just the upstop rail) is allowing the 
>damper pedal to take the dampers too high. On Steinways, you can 
>confirm by pulling action out 1/8 inch and trying again. Because the 
>sostenuto is on the key action, the damper will now not hang.
>
>If on the other hand it hangs when using the key, the damper upstop 
>rail is probably too high, allowing the tab to blow by the rod.
>
>If the damper does not snap, but goes down with steady resistance, 
>you can then go after friction in the underlever flange, top flange, 
>or bushing. First, play the note. Push the head lightly to left and 
>right. If it moves one way, the bushing is PROBABLY free. You can 
>develop a feel for how much it is sprung against the bushing. If it 
>flunks or is inconclusive, THEN you can remove the action.
>
>Lift the underlever with one finger. You can feel friction. With one 
>finger of the other hand, press the wire gently left/right, right 
>under the bushing. One way it will move with you, off the bushing. 
>The other way it won't. If it moves opposite your push both ways, 
>the bushing is probably too tight. If not, then you can remove the 
>wire and check for top flange friction and mount flange friction. 
>Last resort take out the underlever. It takes longer to describe than to do.
>
>Good luck,
>Bob Davis
>
>


---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/2f/46/08/7d/attachment.htm

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--