piano with 64 or 68 keys? .

[John M. Formsma]

I doubt you'd get a pure octave-5th and have the double octave still sound
acceptable. I'd begin with A3-A4 as a strict 4:2 octave, then see what kind
of temperament that makes and how it fits as you expand that to the rest of
the piano. 

 

Like I said, don't expect it to sound like a good piano. The scale just is
not capable of that.

 

JF

 

  _____  

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of pianotune05
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 8:40 AM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: Re: piano with 64 or 68 keys? .

 

Hi John,

Thanks for the heads up.  Half the time for me will be great since I'm slow
at tuning. ;)  I believe the octave fifths are pure right?  This will be
interesting.  Thanks again. I'll let you know how it turned out.  I need to
call her today to schedule it.  

Marshall

----- Original Message ----- 

From: John M. <mailto:john at formsmapiano.com>  Formsma 

To: 'Pianotech List' <mailto:pianotech at ptg.org>  

Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 7:49 AM

Subject: RE: piano with 64 or 68 keys? .

 

Marshall,

 

I have two of this type--both Aeolian.  There are two strings per unison
from about E3 up to the top, then single strings below that. It should take
you about half your normal time, and it will still sound bad. ;-)  If you
pay close attention to the bass and tune 4:2 octaves, it might sound better.
Just listen to your double octaves and octave-5ths and let the piano tell
you what it wants. Don't expect more than it can give, though.

 

John Formsma

 


  _____  


From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of pianotune05
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 7:33 AM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: piano with 64 or 68 keys? .

 

Hi Everyone,

My wife  met someone yesterday while food shopping who wants her piano
tuned.  I'm told that the piano has 64 or 68 keys.  She cannot recall
exactly what the woman told her, and it was a piano made especially for
kids.  What brand of spinit am I looking at tuning, and is there anything I
need to know about it before I tune it?  Thanks again.

Marshall

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Tom Sivak <mailto:tvaktvak at sbcglobal.net>  

To: Pianotech List <mailto:pianotech at ptg.org>  

Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 12:59 AM

Subject: Re: Upright damper work - newbie seeks opinions, please . . .

 

Jim

 

Why replace anything more than the felts?  Not sure what you meant by
'multiple wimpy dampers', but if the felts are coming unglued from the
damper blocks, then it's time to replace the felts with new ones.  Hot hide
glue is the glue of choice.  

 

As far as what felts to use as replacements, check your Schaff or Pianotek
catalog and try to match the existing damper felts.  You can buy a set of
bass dampers that will have a preset number of monochord and bichord felts.
Compare that to the number of mono and bi strings on your Knabe.  (You can
always buy extras if need be.)  Any set of treble dampers will have enough
for your piano, but I usually try to duplicate the size of the existing
dampers.  Some pianos have the same size damper felt for the entire treble,
while others graduate from larger to smaller.  You can buy sets of either
type.  

 

The one area I might stray from the original design is in the lower
trichords.  If the set of dampers you've bought has any trichord wedges, I'd
use them even if the original damper layout used exclusively flats for the
trichords.  There a little harder to align to the string so that they dampen
all three strings equally but once aligned, they do a much better job of
muting the strings than the flats.  

 

I like to glue the new damper felts on the damper blocks while the action is
in the piano, especially for the mono and bichord wedges.  By gluing the new
felt on the damper block while the action is in the piano, the new felt
seats itself against the strings naturally, and results in having to make
fewer adjustments after the glue has dried.  Just lift the damper lever, put
the felt (with glue on its back) on the block, and release the lever; the
damper spring will firmly keep the felt in place, but still allow it to move
slightly from side to side as it finds its natural position between the
strings.

 

I hope that answered your question...  

 

Good luck,

Tom Sivak

Chicago

James H Frazee <jimfrazee at msn.com> wrote:

It's a 1957 Knabe console with multiple wimpy dampers coming unglued.
Should I replace just the felts or the entire damper assembly and, if so
[either way], which/whose should I use.  I realize my times will be about
double what JG's Labor Guide says but I want to do it right because it's a
regular client and nice lady.  Thanks in advance.

 

 

Jim Frazee
914.763.8689
Offlist at:  jimfrazee at msn.com

 

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