> Gordon Stelter wrote: > Someone here said it would, What would what? > and that's not true. What's not true? > The DC humidistat has a 200 Watt limit. 600 Watt, last time I looked. > You could, of > course, run it to a relay which then turned the > dehumidifier on and off. ( see "Grainger Industrial > Supply" ) Run what to a relay? > This became of interest after a stuck-on > Kenmore dehumidifier damaged a very clean, well-made > Bjur grand that I had just purchased! What on earth is a Bjur grand? > Dried it out > quite badly. I was also interested in this for better > accuracy in humidity control. Interested in what? Terry Farrell > Well, I just took the humidistat from the Kenmore > dehumidifier out, and the problem was immediately > apparent: the hydroscopic nylon strip which grows and > shrinks with humidity changes is supposed to be in a > loop, with the ends glued together. It pulls on a > switch which turns tthe compressor on and off. The > ends came unglued, so it stayed "on" all the time. I > just emailed the maker (DNA Group in N.C. ) and asked > them for a new switch. I also asked them to pay for > the piano. > ( Please wish me luck! ) > > > > > --- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote: > >> Not trying to be argumentative, but a vapor barrier >> will not solve this >> problem. The condensation is from water vapor in the >> air inside the room. If >> the room is at 40% RH and 72 degrees, it has a >> certain amount of water vapor >> in the air - whether more vapor is coming into the >> room and being removed by >> a dehumidifier or whether the room is vapor-sealed >> and at 40% RH with no >> humidifier or dehumidifier operating. When air under >> those conditions is >> chilled to 46 degrees, condensation form - no need >> for additional vapor to >> enter the room. Presumably it is insulation you need >> - not a vapor barrier. >> >> However, a vapor barrier is likely always a good >> thing to have - will help >> keep your room conditions constant and minimize the >> work a climate-control >> system has to do with humidity - but the specific >> problem here is >> insulation. >> >> Or a warmer climate. Just wait a few years. Unless >> of course the Gulf Stream >> stops....... >> >> Terry Farrell >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> > Thanks Chistopher, Terry... and Don. >> > >> > I wonder if you could expound a bit on exactly >> what a vapor barrier is... >> > is that like a space of dead air in between double >> panes of window glass ? >> > >> > Terry... about the Farhenheit bit.... I was >> speaking Amerilish for youz >> > guys's benifit you see... :) >> > >> > Cheers and thanks. >> > RicB >> > >> > Responding as an architect, I asked a senior >> technical architect in our >> > office for his thoughts. He agrees with Mr. >> Farrell. The building >> > envelop needs a vapor barrier. If it is a hot >> humid climate, the barrier >> > should go to the outside. If it is a cold dry >> climate, like here, it >> > should go towards the inside. >> > ------------------------------ >> > >> > My best guess is that the ceiling and upper walls >> are poorly insulated. >> > These are outside walls? The dew point for 40% RH >> and 72 degrees F is 46 >> > degrees. So if it was 36 degrees F outside and the >> walls were around 40 >> > degrees F or so, condensation will occur on the >> walls. >> > >> > I thought Europeans used the Celsius scale for >> temperature. >> > >> > Terry Farrell
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