baldwind bridge separation

[Scott Nelson]

Hello Rick,
   
  This is not a totally uncommon problem with these models. You can remove the strings at the hitch pin end, work epoxy into the joint, and clamp it down with wedges. You probably will need to clamp a stiff board above the cap and the pinblock end and wedge it behind the keybed with a taper as well (maple or beech works well-with the grain oriented properly) as well as some wedges between the ribs and beams on the back side. Screws, in my experience, don't provide enough clamping for a tight glue joint. 
   
  While you have the pressure bar off, I strongly suggest you file the v-bar in that area down to more of a v-shape. The v-bars were always poorly machined near the tenor-treble break (in fact, throughout) and the flat profile kills the sustain at that point as well as causes rattles, etc. I have reshaped these on several pianos that were awful in this regard and it resulted in a much cleaner tone, without distortion.
   
  Hope this is helpful,
   
  Scott Nelson, RPT
richard.ucci at att.net wrote:
    Hi Listies,
  I went to look at a ca: 2000 Baldwin console , black high polish, today for a dealer. The treble bridge cap was pulling away at keys 48-59, resulting in a very plunky tone. I'm told that Gibson/Baldwin no longer backs the warranty on instruments sold before the takeover. Is this true, and also ,is this the kiss of death for this piano? Can a permanant repair be made?
  Thanks,
  Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano

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