Spinet Hammer Butt Springs

[Joseph Garrett]

Tom said:
"Good suggestion.
I've used a section of a heavy wire coat hanger doing one section at a
time. 
Put the tails of the new springs through the holes in the rail.Thread the 
rod through the coils of the springs and clamp the rod to the rail with 
small spring clamps. This snugs the coils into the notch in the rail and 
keeps them aligned until the tails are wedged into the slots in the
rail.The 
job goes quickly doing a section at a time.
It's of course important to get the remnants of the old springs out of 
the rail.
When finished replace the spring rail felt and install .
One more suggestion--- I've replaced the wood screws (which are a pain 
to get in and out-especially if the action is in the piano) with machine 
screws, washer,lock washer and nuts. Drill the hole through the rail and 
pick a screw that will pass through the action bracket and rail 
freely.Remember to replace any shims(front rail cardboard punchings
usually) 
that were there before the rail came out.
I think Joe G. recommended using a piece of weld rod to hold the 
springs in place and I'll be trying that method on the next one----"

Yes, use welding rod. One end has a 3/8" dowel handle, about 1" long,
epoxied to the rod. The other end, has a blunt point, so that you can
thread the rod through the coils as you go. You'll need two of them, each
that are long enough to go half way on the rail. Clamp the rail to the
front edge of your work bench. Start from one end and go to the middle. Go
to the othe end and do the same. Before you take the rod out, it's a good
idea to "crimp" the coils with a pair of small duck bill pliers, so the
spring will remain perpendicular to the rail. When you are inserting the
springs into the rail, use a pair of needle nose pliers to snug the coil
against the notch in the rail, then make the bend to insert the "tail" into
the other hole or slot. Always remove the old rail felt before starting
this job. Also make sure all of the holes are clear of debris and glue.
DAMHIKT!<G> I use a heavy sewing needle mounted in a dowel handle. I ground
two, opposite, "flats" on th needle to make it into a miniature
chisel/drill/pick.
As for replacing the wood screws...yes, but not with bolts/nuts/lock
washers/washers! The holes in the brackets are the correct size to TAP with
1/4-20 threads. Then all you have to do is drill the rail where the screws
went, out to allow the 1/4-20, R.H. bolts to pass through. Put the rail in
a vise, where you are drilling out, to avoid the rail splitting! another
DAMHIK!<G> Then, all you need to do is put the rail in position and insert
the 1/4-20 x 1" bolt in from the backside of the action and screw them
in........No more fiddleing with offset screw drivers, etc..!!<G> BTW,
there are some actions that will not allow you to take the original screw
all the way out and you'll have to remove the Hammer Rest Rail in the
process.. No bigee there...just bend the opposing rail pivot rod just
enough to slide the other pivots out of their "bearings". Be aware that you
will need to remove a few hammer butts next to the brackets to allow the
pivots to slide all the way out.
One final thing: ANY Time you are working on an action.....NUMBER
everything before starting. This should be S.O.P. ALWAYS. Please use a
pencil folks. The possibility of misnumbering is great and then you'll be
able to erase your mistake.<G>
Have a good one.
Regards,



Joseph Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain, Tool Police
Squares R I