Great idea. I only wonder what .000 of movement equals "adequate" drying. And does this thing "wear out" ( lose "elasticity" after several cycles )? I do my drying in an aluminum, portable outbuilding in my backyard. I also do my finishing and ozoning there, thus displacing some very serious health hazards. It is 10'x12', which is really not quite big enough ( but I got a "deal" on it ). Stainless steel sheets on the floor ( from the "scratch and dent" sale at the steelyard ) keep the plywood from transferring moisture. As the walls are aluminum, I can get the RH from 70% to 15% in about 30 minutes, with a Sears room dehumidifier. A hose runs from the tank to outside, so I don't have to dump it by hand. ( Some dehumidifiers have a fitting for this. ) An air conditioner in one of the windows also helps dehumidify, while keeping the temperature down if the sun shines too much. At 15% RH, the cracks open up nicely, but don't elongate. Yes, some joints also open up a bit ( beam to rim, about 1/32" ) but I'll get some glue in there. As I see it, these beams already suffered "compression set" from the excessive moisture the pianos are subjected to, here in Georgia, so it's "not my fault". More importantly, I believe, is that I get my shims ( made from old soundboards ) in nice and tight, in a shrunk-down board, so I get a little more crown when it is re-humidified. And so cracks don't open up later, along the shims. Peace, G --- Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> wrote: > > > When you are preparing an old soundboard for > repairing > > cracks and refinishing, perhaps for coating with > epoxy > > to reinforce, is a slower, gentler drying speed > better > > for the board? Can making a board to desorb too > > quickly cause fiber damage or other damage? > > I don't think the rate at which the board gives up > it's > moisture is a problem, but the way by which it's > induced could > very well be. If you're drying it with air that's > been dried > by chilling and condensing the moisture out of it, > you won't > hurt it. Using heat, as most of us do, can damage > the board. > Realistically, an oil filled or ceramic heater under > the > blanket shrouded piano, cooking at 100°F for a day > will likely > get the job done without hurting anything. > > Knowing what the MC actually is in the panel is > another > problem. When is it ready? A shop made MC gage as > shown, set > on top of the soundboard under the blanket, will > give you a > reasonably accurate idea of the MC of the panel to > tell you > when it's time to proceed. > > Ron N > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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