Glue for cracked rib? ( Terry ????? )

[gordon stelter]

Thanks, Terry.
      I'm going to run some experiments with the other
glues, to "see what sticks". But I like your logic
about hide-to-hide ( although I think any water-based
glue will bind nicely with the hide glue, IMHO. One
thing that "came to me in a  dream" is this: I have
the piano rolled up on its tail so the ribs are
horizontla, and WAS intending to drip super-thin CA
into the rib crack from the side ( the only type thin
enopugh to make it in there, probably ) with the
portion of the crack on the other side of the rib
"dammed up" with masking tape, to keep the CA from
just dripping though ( and all over the place ). But
then I rememberered that the glue on tape "activates"
the CA, so I might not have time to "pul it all
together" with the clamps. So I'll run some tests with
this. 
      3 ribs are cracked ( so much for over-drying
boards! ) but only one crack is wide enough to get an
exacto-knife into. So I'm goping with the ultra-thin
CA< and leave it all clamped tightly together for
several dauys.
     I'll let y'all know how it turns out.
      Peace,
     G

--- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

> The few times I've done this repair I have used cold
> hide glue. I figure 
> there is still hide glue on the glue surfaces, so
> more hide glue would 
> likely stick the best. It has good gap filling
> properties and is easy to 
> use. I really don't see what would be better.
> Adhesives such as epoxy and 
> others are only as good as your surface preparation
> - and there will be next 
> to none with this repair.
> 
> Terry Farrell
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > Thanks, Terry.
> >     I just made some of these. But the question
> > remains: what glue? Bolduc? Epoxy? CA? I'm tempted
> to
> > try ultra-thin CA, simply because it is the least
> > viscous, and should wick into the rib crack well.
> > First I plan to blast out the crack in the rib
> with
> > brake part cleaner and one of those pipette tubes
> that
> > comes with it,  as these is some residue in the
> rib
> > crack from stripping the board ( with straight
> acetone
> > ) that went through the soundboard cracks to
> below.
> > Then I'lll roll the piano on its tail so that the
> ribs
> > are horizontal, and glue dripped on the crack from
> the
> > side will fill it well. Then I'll put in the wire
> type
> > clamp, and waita  few days. Question: I don't have
> any
> > CA accelerator, and none is sold in thios town.
> What
> > else might help it cure ?
> >      If the wire doesn't want to come out, I'll
> try
> > heating it slightly. Heat softens cured CA>
> >     An alternative ( that I've used to get glue
> into
> > tight spaces ) would to be to squeeze an exacto
> knife
> > blade into the rib crack, after drilling a tiny
> pilot
> > hole from above, poutting the drill bit back in to
> > make sure that the blade stops it, then drillinga
> > slighly larger hole ( like 1/8" ) from the board
> side,
> > and fliinig it with glue. With the blade still in
> > place, or with the intitial, smaller bit stuck in
> the
> > back half of the hole, glue can then be squeezed (
> > witha  hypo ) into the 1/8" hole, and the 1/8" bit
> > turned around and used as a piston to force it
> into
> > the joiunt. This works very well to get glue into
> > tight spaces.
> >     What would you do?
> >     Thump
> >
> > --- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I have found using little boat clamps to be very
> >> useful for jobs like you describe:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Plenty strong to pull anything together.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Terry Farrell
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >>
> >> > I'm going to use a "piano wire tgrough the rib"
> >> type
> >> > clamp. Of course, I'll "dry run" it, first, too
> >> see if
> >> > it's strong enough to oull it back together.
> >> >     G
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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> 
> 



 
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