More general glue questions was Glue for cracked rib?

[Avery]

I guess I'm showing my "ignorance" here but what is
CE stuff? Not CA?

Avery

At 11:25 AM 10/31/2006, you wrote:
>Because this rib will be put under stress again, and
>the split is NOT on an old glue joint, I'm intending
>to use the CE stuff that Coleman sells. I don't
>consider hide glue, hot or cold, of adequate strength
>for this application.
>      Thump
>
>P.S. Coleman said he "uses it all the time" for
>applications such as this.
>
>--- ed440 at mindspring.com wrote:
>
> > Alan-
> >
> > Depends on just what you mean by "here."
> >
> > For a buzzing rib in a dying piano with no rebuild
> > value in a school struggling to recover from
> > Katrina, I would use whatever would work fast and
> > easy. (Probably CE, and I might press the rib up
> > with a wedge or stick to the floor or just my hand
> > for the minute it takes the glue to bond.
> >
> > For repair, rebuilding or restoration of a preWWII
> > instrument, working in my shop, I would probably use
> > cold hide glue.  (First I would test glue some scrap
> > wood over night to make sure my glue was still
> > good.)  A failed hide glue joint usually has glue
> > dust or flakes. You can't fully clean it without
> > disassembling the joint.  Cold hide glue is fairly
> > thin, easy to inject and will dissolve the glue
> > dust.  It gives you plenty clamping time and can be
> > reversed later with water and heat.
> >
> > To use Titebond you need to get the joint cleaned,
> > it is a bit thicker than cold hide glue and harder
> > to reverse, should that be desired, and you've got
> > to clamp faster.
> >
> > On a Kimball Classic with a soundboard coming loose
> > along the spine, I used Titebond and quickly clamped
> > with a strip of quarter round and drywall screws.
> > This job was done on site.
> >
> > On a rare 19th century piano I'd consider refering
> > the job to a conservator trained to deal with
> > historic instruments or at least getting
> > specialist's advice on what to do (or not do).
> >
> > I would not use the peanut butter stuff.  For gaps I
> > like polyfiber in epoxy. For cosmetic reconstruction
> > try Wood Rebuilder.
> >
> > Just my opinions.
> >
> > Ed Sutton
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u at earthlink.net>
> > >Sent: Oct 30, 2006 3:42 PM
> > >To: pianotech at ptg.org
> > >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for
> > cracked rib?
> > >
> > >----- This is a forwarded message
> > ----------------------------------------
> > >From: "Alan R. Barnard" <tune4u at earthlink.net>
> > >To: ed440 at mindspring.com, pianotech at ptg.org
> > >Received: 10/30/2006 12:35:29 PM
> > >Subject: More general glue questions was Glue for
> > cracked rib?
> > >
> > >
> > >Are there reasons for not using yellow glue, here?
> > (Titebond, Carpenters, etc.)
> > >
> > >And while I'm asking questions out of ignorance:
> > When you need to fill a gap, what about using panel
> > adhesive--the stuff that looks like peanut butter?
> > >
> > >Alan Barnard
> > >Salem, MO
> > >Joshua 24:15
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original message
> > ----------------------------------------
> > >From: ed440 at mindspring.com
> > >To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
> > >Received: 10/30/2006 12:19:53 PM
> > >Subject: Re: Glue for cracked rib?
> > >
> > >
> > >>Gordon-
> > >
> > >>When you say "cracked" I'm assuming you mean
> > "separated," not "split."
> > >
> > >>Cold hide glue is usually the restorer's choice in
> > a situation like this. It will soften and
> > >>combine with any hide glue that is in the joint.
> > Hide glue is not gap-filling.  (I just
> > >>came from a great talk by Eugene Thorndahl, who
> > has spent 50 years as a hide glue
> > >>chemist. He said the gap-filling properties of
> > hide glue are an Internet myth.
> > >><www.bjorn.net>  He may be the only source of
> > genuine graded hide glues for
> > >>instrument and restoration work.)
> > >
> > >>For a fast repair, consider CE (Cyano-epoxy aka
> > Tech-Bond).  It has the shear and
> > >>shock resistance that CA sadly lacks, and sets a
> > bit slower.  Jim Coleman, Jr. and a
> > >>few other specialty distributors sell it.
> > >
> > >>In either case you may want to drill a hole for
> > access to the joint and inject the glue
> > >>right into the center of the problem.
> > >
> > >>Ed Sutton
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
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