These are indeed square tuning pins that screw first in the iron plate and also into the block. I could bore them out but then the thread will be wasted, so have to make a new (English?) thread in the plate and make a new pin. A pin extractor seems a possibility but one pin has broken just at the level of the plate. The pins are tight enough before I pull them out so I hope they stay that way. I think making new pins could be done by a company in my region.Hopefully with the same square shape and same material. I've also read about using PTFE tape for using just the lenght that goes into the wood. Anyone have experience with this Teflon tape and is this easy to find? On Sun, Aug 3, 2008 at 10:15 PM, <pianotech-request at ptg.org> wrote: > Send Pianotech mailing list submissions to > pianotech at ptg.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pianotech-request at ptg.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pianotech-owner at ptg.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Pianotech digest..." > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Plate Lettering (Fenton Murray) > 2. Decapping bridges with a router (Richard Brekne) > 3. BC Technical was:Stretcher (Richard Brekne) > 4. Re: Decapping bridges with a router (Fenton Murray) > 5. Re: Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks (Ron Nossaman) > 6. undesired business (Alan Forsyth) > 7. RE: Broadwood broken tuning pin (Gevaert Pierre) > 8. Re: Decapping bridges with a router (Paul T Williams) > 9. Re: Decapping the bridge (David Love) > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: "Fenton Murray" <fmurray at cruzio.com> > To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:15:06 -0700 > Subject: Re: Plate Lettering > Decals Unlimited stocks a product for this that is expensive but has worked > for me. > Fenton > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Servinsky" <tompiano at bellsouth.net > > > To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> > Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 6:37 PM > Subject: Re: Plate Lettering > > > Thank you Barbara. That's what I'm looking for. >> Tom >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barbara Richmond" < >> piano57 at comcast.net> >> To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> >> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 2:31 PM >> Subject: Re: Plate Lettering >> >> >> Pianotek carries packets of rub-on numbers. >>> >>> Barbara Richmond, RPT >>> near Peoria, IL >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Servinsky" < >>> tompiano at bellsouth.net> >>> To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> >>> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 10:24 AM >>> Subject: Re: Plate Lettering >>> >>> >>> Up until last year I was able to purchase 4 full sheets of numerals ( 8, >>>> 10, 12, and 14 font size) for about $4 a pack. Those packets have >>>> disappeared from the likes of Office Depot, Staples, and most hobby stores. >>>> Apparently the rub on numbers packets were aimed at the architects doing >>>> blueprint >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Richard Brekne <ricb at pianostemmer.no> > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 20:26:00 +0100 > Subject: Decapping bridges with a router > I suppose you would, tho you perhaps are just as likely to find some > variances in height of the root itself as well. I would think tho that if > the most significant variations in bridge height are due to differences of > cap thickness it was because of shaving the cap after the bridge assembly > was glued to the panel. Routing off to fairly closely match the joint line > just puts you back in that original state then when you glue on a new > uniform thickness cap yes ? A Marking Gauge can easily be used to mark a > given distance up from the panel as it can down from the bridge > surface....so whatever situation you are looking at can be dealt with. > > Cheers > RicB > > I find that variations in bridge height almost always come about > as function > of differences in thickness of the cap, not the root. > David Love > davidlovepianos at comcast.net > www.davidlovepianos.com > > > Grin... now thats what I call a dream ! How long ago did you take that > Del, and out of curiosity.... what do you do about handling the point > raised earlier about dealing with the variant heights of the original > bridge ? > > RicB > > See the attached. > > ddf > > > https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080802/427bc043/attachment.jpe > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Richard Brekne <ricb at pianostemmer.no> > To: pianotech at ptg.org > Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 20:29:40 +0100 > Subject: BC Technical was:Stretcher > I have heard from many friends all kinds of superlatives about the recent > seminar André gave in BC and would have loved to have been able to attend. > The unsung hero here is one Jack Houweling who had a major hand in making > this happen. Hands across the seas again... Well done Jack ! > > Cheers > RicB > > > > I wish that I could have attended you BC technical session. > > Hopefully one day we will get a chance to raise a glass together. > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Jon, > > I had a great time, and have never before experienced such warmth, > friendliness and generosity. > The level too was very high. > I have very nice memories of this seminar. > > I would very much like to raise that glass of wine! > (;>) > > friendly greetings > from > André Oorebeek > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: "Fenton Murray" <fmurray at cruzio.com> > To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 11:37:13 -0700 > Subject: Re: Decapping bridges with a router > Ron, > Wow, this approach of a complete track down both sides of the bridge has > occurred to me but always seemed to complicated. Thanks for the great photos > and description. > Fenton > ----- Original Message ----- > > *From:* Ron Overs <sec at overspianos.com.au> > *To:* Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org> > *Cc:* Bronwyn Bijl <bronwyn at bijl.co.nz> ; Miles Warner<canterburybenz at hotmail.com> > *Sent:* Sunday, August 03, 2008 5:53 AM > *Subject:* Re: Decapping bridges with a router > > Hi all, > > I've been following this thread which David started, and since the process > we use doesn't seem to have been covered by anyone here is an outline, with > image links, of the procedure we use when recapping a bridge without > disturbing the original board (in cases where the board is deemed to be > satisfactory, ie. stiff enough, for wearing out another set of hammers and > wire). > > We find that most of the time, when fitting new bridge caps, we usually > will want to make some adjustments to the bridge height. After removing the > strings, an assessment of the current bridge heights are made before > removing the plate. If the bridge height needs to be raised, we glue small > blocks of an appropriate thickness to the existing bridge caps. The blocks > are made precisely to the height we wish to raise the bridge at each > measurement point. This will provide a reference height for manufacturing > the router guides so that they conform to the revised bridge height profile. > The image link below shows our most recent rebuild of a 2001 Hamburg > Steinway D. Initially, I thought we were going to need to build a new board > for this piano. The board's strung crown was turned quite inside-out in the > high treble string sections at the rib feathering behind the bridge. But > after stripping the piano the board seemed to recover its crown quite > nicely, so a decision was made to keep the original board and bridge root. > The original string scale of this piano had shorter speaking lengths in the > high treble, when compared to model Ds we've rebuilt in the past. Our > previous model D string scale re-designs wouldn't fit this piano. So I > designed a new string scale similar to our previous revised model-D log > scales, to enable the new string scale to fit on the original bridge root. > Take a look at the first image by opening the link below. > > http://users.tpg.com.au/ronovers/CrstchrchDbd1.jpg > > You can see the router guides are finished to the desired height, ready for > routing off the bridge caps. The templates for the new string scale, which > must be determined before routing off the original caps, are sitting on the > iron plate, just to the right of the case. For this job, we decided to > retain the original board finish, since it was still in good condition. > First, masking tape is laid down on the board where the runners will be > attached to the board. The wax surface on the top of the masking tape is > removed by wiping the tape with lacquer thinners. This ensures that the > adhesive will stick to the masking tape. The runners are cut slightly higher > than required, with the bottom surface cut to approximately follow the > contour of the board. The accuracy of the lower contour is not critical, > since we fix the runners to the tape using body filler. Once the filler > hardens we plane and scrape the runners until we arrive at the desired > bridge height and profile. Note the small blocks we have glued to the lower > section of the bass bridge and the lower half-section of the treble bridge. > This piano had insufficient downbearing in the low bass and low end of the > long bridge, while there was quite a bit too much downbearing in the high > treble (which was why the board's crown when strung was turned inside-out in > the high treble). The down bearing can be reduced to the desired angle by > packing the rear duplex strips with hardwood made to an appropriate > thickness. While we could have adjusted the high treble downbearing by > reducing the height of the new cap, I didn't want to do this because this > piano had an original bridge height in the high treble which was only 30 mm. > Taking another 1.0 - 1.5 mm off this height would make what I believe to be > an already marginally low bridge height for a concert grand treble bridge > even lower. So we decided a better route for the high treble in this > instance would be to pack up the rear duplex strips. > > The beauty of using masking tape for board-finish protection, and using > body filler to fix the runners to the tape, is that once the bridge cap has > been routed off, the runners can simply be pulled off the board leaving it > completely undamaged. > > http://users.tpg.com.au/ronovers/CrstchrchDbd2.jpg > > The above image link shows the same piano once the new bridge caps were > fitted, and the notching, sealing and pinning completed. Notice that the new > log string scale results in pin-lines which form uniform curves. Next time > you get your eye under the lid of a standard D, have a look along the > pin-lines, particularly those in the string section shown in the image. They > don't look like this. Instruments equipped with his type of scale will make > it easier to lay a tempered scale, and the tuning stability will be improved > as a consequence of the piano having a smoother percentage of breaking > strain deviation. > > http://users.tpg.com.au/ronovers/CrstchrchDbd3.jpg > (*this original image was provided courtesy of Reubin Bijl who took a > series of images at the launch concert in early June)* > > The above link shows an image of the finished piano, during its launch > concert at the Music School of Christchurch. The underside of the top lid > has quite a good reflection because we flatten and polish this surface to > the same standard as for the outside of the case. I realise that most > manufacturers don't bother too much with the under side of the lid, > including the original manufacturer of this piano. But this image shows just > what a difference high-polishing the underside of the lid makes. Yes I know > its only cosmetic, but that's also part of the concert experience. > > Ron Overs > > -- > > *OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY* > * **Grand Piano Manufacturers* > _______________________ > > Web http://overspianos.com.au > mailto:ron at overspianos.com.au > _______________________ > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> > To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2008 13:43:36 -0500 > Subject: Re: Doweled and Fully Fit Pinblocks > Michael Spreeman wrote: > >> >> To David Love, I think the attribute to the removable stretcher, >> unattached block scenario is the ability to extract the plate, block, and >> strings in order to repair the cracks in the CC boards of many of the pianos >> that come to the dry west climate from factories where the instruments are >> constructed in an environment that has no RH control (you can read between >> the lines on that one!). >> > > When Baldwin went to this system, their parts lists started carrying entire > soundboard assemblies, finished, with pinned bridges and everything. I > expect a board could be replaced, strings back up to pitch, and dampers > adjusted in less than two days. > Ron N > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: "Alan Forsyth" <noodles at oodles.orangehome.co.uk> > To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 19:59:52 +0100 > Subject: undesired business > ** > > *I just tell them that I retired 2 weeks ago.* > ** > *AF* > > ----- Original Message ----- > What words are used to tell a customer you hate their piano and don't > want to work on it anymore? > > --David Nereson, RPT > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: "Gevaert Pierre" <pierre.gevaert at belgacom.net> > To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 20:59:56 +0200 > Subject: RE: Broadwood broken tuning pin > > Hi, > > > > The Boudoir grands I know about have the (square)pins screwed for about 2/3 > into the iron plate and 1/3 into wood. > > I tuned several and some stayed in tune quite well (afther more than 130 > years !) > > Others had the pins to loose. I don't know if it is possible to find such > tuning pins nor if it these would hold better. > > There is some explanation on the lest front side of the soundboard near the > basstrings but I think this is only to explain how to change a string. > > I'm also interested to know how to make this kind of pins tight again. > > > > Like some use ca glue for wooden pinblocks would it be possible to use a > kind of product like Locktite for metal threads ? > > This is used for making the threads tighter and exists in several > strenghts. > > Of course this may sound stange for using this kind of stuff for historical > pianos but I can't see another way exept maybe make threaded pins that are a > little bigger or maybe a better choise to change the wooden part of the > block (beech)so that at least the pins get some new grip there. > > > > In this way it would be possible to clean and reuse the original pins. > > There are many of those Boudoir grands remaining today so I would > eventually be possible to find another similar instrument for using spare > parts. > > > > Pierre Gevaert > > > > -----Message d'origine----- > De : pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] De la > part de John Delacour > Envoyé : dimanche 3 août 2008 19:58 > À : Pianotech List > Objet : Re: Broadwood broken tuning pin > > > > At 15:28 +0200 3/8/08, stephan van meirhaeghe wrote: > > > > >Hi list, > > > > > >I'm now restoring a Broadwood grand 'Boudoir' and had to remove all > > >the tuning pins because to rusty and not possible to tune... > > >Anywone had similar problems?And where can I find similar pins?Or do > > >I need make new ones? > > > > Are you talking of the threaded pins that screw into an iron plate? > > If so, send a photo. I can't help you but I'll be doing some work > > with a colleague soon who may have some. > > > > JD > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Paul T Williams <pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu> > To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 15:13:47 -0500 > Subject: Re: Decapping bridges with a router > > David, > > Contact Roger Gable in Everett, Washington at rgable2 at verizon. net. He > and I did this on an old Steinway K about 5 years ago, but don't remember > how the jig was set up. > > Paul > > > > > *"David Love" <davidlovepianos at comcast.net>* > Sent by: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org > > 08/01/2008 10:03 PM > Please respond to > Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org> > > To > "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org> cc > Subject > Decapping bridges with a router > > > > > A couple of years ago I saw (or dreamt) a router adaptation to take the > bridge cap off. It consisted of a couple of elevated skids attached to the > router base that straddled the bridge so that you could basically run a > router down the length of the bridge and take the bridge top down--very > fast, very smooth. Does anyone use that system and can send me a picture > of > the skids and how they attached them? I have some ideas myself but > shortcuts are always welcome. > > David Love > davidlovepianos at comcast.net > www.davidlovepianos.com > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> > To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2008 13:15:37 -0700 > Subject: Re: Decapping the bridge > JDs method of removing the cap whole is pretty nice and fairly simple. You > can see from the photos attached I have removed the bass cap and am in the > process of starting the long bridge. The bass cap took about 15 minutes. > Getting the cap off in one piece after premeasuring the bearing and > calculating any necessary changes certainly makes it a lot easier to pre > shape and set the proper thickness of the new caps before gluing them on. > Thanks JD for the suggestion. Learn something new everyday (hopefully). > Thanks all for the router skid suggestions as well. There is certainly an > appropriate use for that procedure as well. > > David Love > > _______________________________________________ > Pianotech list info https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > -- SVM pianostemmer/restaurateur/verkoop Makelaarstraat 13 9000 GENT Gsm: +32(0)497 22 15 48 BTW-TVA-Id.VAT: BE-0878 827 126 E-mail: svmpiano at gmail.com www.svmpianostemmer.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20080804/dbc223ec/attachment-0001.html
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