At 17:54 -0400 19/7/10, Will Truitt wrote: >The only thing I would add to what Dale has said is that make sure >you needle deeply enough. I like to get pretty deep into the >shoulder with my needle(s). If you can't push in 3 needles, then go >with a single needle. Don't be afraid, you're not going to kill the >hammer in the shoulders. I must say my experience of the natural felt has been very good indeed. I have never used standard hammers covered in this felt but always have them custom made by Abel, and I have also had hammers recovered in the special natural felt. I have not come across a felt that is easier to tone. The needle can be pushed in far more easily than with some, and there is a satisfying crunchy feel as it goes in, which I associate with the felts of long ago. With most hammers I do most of my toning by stabbing, but with these it is far less effort to use a pushing action for at least half the work. For many years since I have used a single needle. As to steaming them, I just can't imagine from my experience of this felt how this might ever be necessary. All the sets I have had have been just the right amount too bright after preliminary papering up, requiring what I consider to be a reasonable amount of toning, and they are a pleasure to tone. Although the link below is from Renner, I think many people would find it interesting and useful: <http://www.lloydmeyer.com/PDF/Voicing_the_Renner_Hammer.pdf> Much of what is written here is equally applicable to the Abel hammer, though there are a few things I would not accept -- for example the use of 80 and 120 grit paper for facing the hammers. I would never go coarser than P 180. The hammers I get from Abel are not concave at the top as they used to be and I think they face them up at the factory after cutting, which I am glad of. JD
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