re-repining

[Fred S. Sturm]

    I have never had a becket slip from a restring with dummy pins. I
believe the creation of a sharp bend from the tuning pin is what
determines whether or not a becket slip will occur. So if you are always
conscious of making that first bend rapidly and firmly, a becket will
never slip.
    I sometimes have a becket slip when "backing around" a broken string
- when a string breaks at the pin, taking slack from the neighboring pin
to put on the pin where the wire broke. This occurs when I don't "jerk"
the pin I am starting a coil on fast enough to create that sharp bend.
When I do get a sharp bend, a single coil around the tuning pin almost
always holds just fine. Sometimes even a half coil will hold. (Some
pianos aren't worth the time to go out to the car and get new wire, etc).

    BTW, I think the sharp bend is much more important than making sure
the becket is pushed absolutely snug to the pin. I've seen a lot of coils
where the becket is sticking out 1 to 2mm, and where no problem has
arisen over many years. Bends in piano wire are amazingly strong. I use a
piece of bass string with a hook bent in the end as a string hook, and it
holds up to a strong a pull as I can possibly give it.
Regards,
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico

Isaac OLEG wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Have you good results in the treble with the dummy pin method ? I use
> it all the time and recently had two beckets slipping out. I am still
> thinking of where the problem is, as I take care to have the Becket
> well inserted before tensioning.
>
> May be the angle from the coil was a little round to begin with ?
>
> I am also thinking of keeping the old good pins in some particular
> case, but was thinking that the method would not be timeless (and that
> it is less easy to have neat coils then).
>
> We don't have "Larudee pins in Europe" the idea seem good, I hate
> these oversized pins, tuning is difficult with them because of the
> larger move of the string vs.. the same hammer move.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Isaac OLEG
>
> Entretien et reparation de pianos.
>
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>
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De la part de
> > Fred S. Sturm
> > Envoye : vendredi 14 mars 2003 17:50
> > A : caut@ptg.org
> > Objet : re-repinning
> >
> >
> >     A couple additional thoughts:
> > 1) There is no law saying you have to replace tuning pins when
> > re-stringing. If the current pins have good torque, I re-use them.
> > Remove strings, leaving pins in place (backed out a full turn). Make
> > coils in new strings on a dummy pin and transfer - just
> > like replacing a
> > broken string. I find this procedure takes somewhat less time than
> > removing pins and restringing with new pins. I do it all
> > the time in the
> > university setting (most commonly just the capo sections, but often
> > enough the whole piano).
> > 2) Remember that Larudee pins (oversized, but with 2/0 or
> > 1/0 top/becket
> > segments) are available in between sizes: 3.5/0, 4/0,
> > 4.5/0. This gives
> > additional flexibility. Available from Pianotek. A great
> > idea. I often
> > find 3/0 is too loose, but 4/0 requires more drilling/reaming than I
> > really want to do.
> > Regards,
> > Fred Sturm
> > University of New Mexico
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
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