1974 M & H B

Ed Sutton ed440@mindspring.com
Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:09:04 -0500


> >Based on 5 pianos I've done and 2 others I've  played, I expect Wapin
will
> >reduce the impact noise and increase the sustain in the top end of the
> >piano.  It is o.k. now, will be excellent with Wapin.
>
> Reduce impact noise? I hadn't heard that one. Please explain.
    My impression of what  it does is this: It does not communicate as much
of the first milliseconds of impact or "bang" sound to the soundboard as a
tilted bridgepin.  (Imagine what a "horizontal" pin might do, a la those old
Sohmers with agraffes on the bridge.)  The peak at the front of the curve is
not as high and pointed, and the curve is flatter.  For example, in unisons
it is possible to hear a slower wave in a slightly off unison at the very
top of the piano than I have ever heard in a non-wapin bridge.
    Combining Del's epoxy treatment with Wapin on a 1920's A got beautiful
results.  The soundboard was not dead, but it also was not brand new.
>
> >I'm not going to replace the soundboard or case, and wonder if anyone has
> >experienced problems with these
> >in a BB of this (Aeolian) vintage.
>
> Yes. I have a BB of similar vintage in one of my colleges that needs
> rebuilt - with a new soundboard (like most of the pianos in all the
> colleges I service). As lousy as it sounds, it is the favorite piano in
the
> facility simply because it still sounds better than the rest of them. I
> suspect the mass and stiffness of the rim, as well as the mass of the ribs
> and bridge in the treble are primarily responsible for this, but the crown
> is still concave and the killer octave still falls apart at higher attack
> levels. Properly rebuilt, with some re-design and a more efficient
> soundboard, it has terrific potential. It will never happen though,
because
> they wouldn't consider rebuilding everyone's favorite piano of the lot.
>
Having spent a year in Kansas, I know what that climate does to soundboards,
especially in institutions!  North Carolina weather is easier on pianos.

> BTW, how does one replace the case, even though you chose not to?
Obviously, I'm not going to.  That's why I'm asking for horror stories of,
say, delaminating cases or warping keybeds before I recommend rebuilding
this piano.  Limping along for 5-10 years while saving for a new piano is
another option for this teacher.  She would prefer rebuilding if this piano
could last the rest of her life.  Several technicians have worked on this
piano, and failed to deliver good results, due to not understanding action
geometry.  She has already put several thousand dollars into it, and I'll
begin by tossing that work.  Since this will be a two stage rebuild (action
now, pinblock and restring in a year or two), I'm concerned to see as far up
the road as possible, and not cause her to invest still more in a lost
cause.
>
>
> >And I can't do anything about the
> >extended capo/reduced agraffe design.

>
> Should one want to? What is the detriment inherent in using a capo instead
> of agraffes? Why is this a bad thing?
>
That's one of my questions! What do you think?

Ed




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