[CAUT] vertical hammers

[Nichols]

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The method my dad used and taught is to use the teeth on the inside of a=20
pair of slip-joint pliers to put multiple grooves in the shank. Careful=20
filing of the outer mating surfaces of the pliers will allow you to close=20
them a little more, and get a consistent set of grooves. Crushing the shank=
=20
is a no-no, but sometimes comes in handy if the shank has been overly=20
reduced during prep.

2=A2 worth, U.S.,
Guy

At 12:47 PM 7/16/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 7/16/2005 10:26:45 AM Central Standard Time,=20
>jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca writes:
>I have seen, at a convention class, or the list, or the Guild magazine, a
>gizmo for scoring the shank, to allow, trapped air to escape.
>I think it was a piece of wood, with a hole drilled in it, the size of the
>shank, then it had a screw in it, where the point was into the hole.
>You just inserted the shank, and it was scored to the depth the point was
>out.
>John M. Ross
>I inherited from my dad a shank knurler. It is a disk with groves in it,=20
>that is attached to a crank. It has a curved piece of metal parallel to=20
>the disk, that can be adjusted with a set screw, to allow the distance=20
>between the disk and the curved metal piece to vary. (for different shank=
=20
>sizes, or more or less knurling). You can attach it to a bench with=20
>screws, or a clamp. He probably got it when he worked for Stark.
>
>I use it when I replace a whole set of shanks. When I do just one, I use a=
=20
>pair of pliers, to gently knurl the shank.
>
>Wim

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