[CAUT] Vertical hammer return spring slings, replacement of

John Ross jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
Sat, 18 Feb 2006 16:39:12 -0400


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If you have quite a few similar Yamahas, in your clientele.
You could buy one set, and replace the flanges.
Then in your spare time, re-cord the ones you removed. You then have an operational set, ready to replace for the next time.
John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Gary Mushlin 
  To: College and University Technicians 
  Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 3:39 PM
  Subject: Re: [CAUT] Vertical hammer return spring slings, replacement of


  If the hammer flanges have the butt plates with screws in the back, you can remove the hammer rail and each hammer at the butt plate, leaving the flanges on the rail. This saves some time having to realign and/or travel the hammers afterwards.


  If there are no butt plates, I've done either of the following:
  1. replace the flanges
  2.  just remove the hammer and flange, unpin the parts, repair the cord and and repin. Then reinstall.


  I've tried both ways and found it to be almost a tossup as far as time goes. New flanges means hoping the flanges are of good quality and will not have to be excessively traveled. On the piano I replaced flanges, I had problems with the flanges clearing each other in the high treble. The new parts may have been slightly wider than the old, and the flanges were more snug against each other than I would have liked. Don't count on the centerpin supplied to work, as they may not match the birdseye on the hammer butt, requiring more work. So be sure you have a good supply of centerpins. If I had to do the job again, I would go with the old parts, since cutting the cord with Yamaha's cord kit is a snap.




  Sincerely,
  Gary Mushlin, RPT




  On Feb 18, 2006, at 8:57 AM, reggaepass@aol.com wrote:


    Hi All,

    This Monday I will replace all of the hammer return spring slings on an older Yamaha U3.  Yamaha graciously provided the cord material.  Someone advised removing all of the dampers and leaving the hammers on for the operation.  However, looks to me like it would be rather tricky to get the glue and the right length of cord in the right place in the hammer flange slots with the hammers still on the rail.  My current plan is to leave the dampers, but remove all of the hammers so they may be handled individually.

    Anybody out there worked through this to their satisfaction?  Got a solvent that works better than alcohol for loosening up the old glue?  For installing the new cords, have you used CA, hide glue, what-have-you?  

    Any and all input is welcome, all the more so if it is before Monday morning.

    Have a good weekend,

    Alan Eder, RPT


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