thanks again to everyone supplying helpful information. Though the wisest advice seemed to favor replacing the rail, I was only in Banff for a short time, and the core stock was already there. Actually the whole process went really well, and quite quickly, to the point I would still have to think twice about rail replacement as an option in future. Here's how it went: 1.) I compiled Susan Graham's article and Ed Foote's e-mail into a checklist. 2.) Stuffed two cores and a bunch of 25w damppchasers into an ABS pipe (oops, too many), checking temperature over several days. 3.) Used our old w/w bench with vice and dogs to make a holding fixture, and some drill rod stock to drive the old core out. I didn't pre-dry the stack, but used a counter-sink to remove extruded wood from the screwholes to make removal easier. 4.) Sized the new core (which was pretty close) with a scraper, then sandpaper, coated it with teflon, then back in the hot-box. 5.) CA'd some emory cloth to some brass rod stock (7/16"? can't remember), chucked it in a cordless, and used it to de-burr the inside of the tube, then held the stack on end and sprayed teflon inside til it dripped out the bottom. 6.) Found a nice short peice of knurled drill-rod under Ted's old metal lathe for a driving cap. Ted used to make exquisite custom becket- breakers, pin-punches and the like. 7.) Set the grain "vertical" and drove the new core home, sawed the ends flush, and went to my room for a sleep. Even though I was cautious and stopped many times to re-read my notes, the entire process of removing the old core and driving in the new one only took about an hour and a half. 8.) The next morning, I had our work-study, Rebecca D'Angelo try her hand at boring a few screw-holes. She also installed the new rail cloth. 9.) That evening (after 18 holes) I reinstalled the parts, and am initially quite pleased with the fit. I presume the new core will gather a bit of moisture, however Banff tends to be quite dry, even in summer. The core is a tight fit to the tube, and I don't suppose that will change. FYI, I will divide photos into two sets, just to be sure I don't overload someone's server. best regards, Mark Cramer Brandon University Brandon, MB (Sessional Faculty Technician, Banff Centre for the Arts, Banff, AB) Photos at: http://tinyurl.com/m2fe9 http://tinyurl.com/nycj7 http://tinyurl.com/rxmhs http://tinyurl.com/lgahu Direct ptg.org URLs: http://ptg.org/pipermail/files/attachments/20060607/6f656a2e/ attachment-0004.jpg http://ptg.org/pipermail/files/attachments/20060607/6f656a2e/ attachment-0005.jpg http://ptg.org/pipermail/files/attachments/20060607/6f656a2e/ attachment-0006.jpg http://ptg.org/pipermail/files/attachments/20060607/6f656a2e/ attachment-0007.jpg -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Horace Greeley Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 10:34 AM To: College and University Technicians Subject: Re: [CAUT] Steinway rail re-doweling Hi, Tim, At 04:45 AM 7/12/2006, you wrote: >Hi Horace, > >Thanks for information about the scales. Most welcome. > As I have not gone the route of buying new, I thought it should > be brought into the discussion. Absolutely! > I do know it has been done, but not sure how this tech does > it. This is a highly respected tech. I don't think it is worth > pursuing for the reasons you mentioned. I was hoping someone who > uses this method might speak up. I do think that simply replacing the whole set new from S&S can work very well for later production...probably anything after the mid/late-80's. Early than that can be more dicey. >John was very concerned about shipping. He sent a custom made >"Anvil" shipping case. The shipping was quite expensive. And yes >it was a single rail. The work was beautiful. You know the solder >joints have been checked. However expensive, I am glad to know that the work is so good. If one is not set up for doing this, it's great to have an option. >After seeing Mark Cramer's directions and pictures I would suggest >looking into replacing myself. When Mark creates directions they >are precise. I agree...now, if I could just remember where I saw them posted...sorry, I've had some very bad EM-days/weeks recently and fear that I have lost many things. > I have directions Mark gave me for another procedure to proof by > doing for an extremely complicated type of installation. There was > nothing to change in his directions. I am sure the same holds true > in re-doweling the rail directions. That was my read, as well. Best. Horace
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