Quoting Paul T Williams <pwilliams4 at unlnotes.unl.edu>: > Hi Willem, > > Don't you let the wood dry before installing new bushings? That is, > if > you're steaming them out.... > > Paul I do a whole set of keys in one pass. By the time I get the last bushing out, the first ones have dried sufficiently to accept the new bushing. But that is also the reason I let the cauls sit in the bushing for a minimum of 4 hours, but preferably 6 - 8 hours. Wim > > > Willem Blees <wblees at bama.ua.edu> > Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org > 11/06/2006 12:30 PM > Please respond to > College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> > > > To > College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org> > cc > > Subject > Re: [CAUT] RE : key bushing removal > > > > > > > Richard > > I do have a problem, at times, with a button coming loose. But I > don't > think it is such a big deal. A little super glue and the button is > back in place. > > On some balance rail bushings where the felt is actually underneath > the button, I use a thin screw driver to remove the felt. It takes a > > little longer, but have not had much trouble with it. > > I use Spurlock's cauls and it takes me about 2 hours to remove, and > rebush a front or balance rail. If I do the balance rail in the > morning, I can do the front rail late in the afternoon, and by next > morning, after I trim, I'm ready to install the keys. > > Wim > Willem Blees, RPT > Piano Tuner/Technician > School of Music > University of Alabama > Tuscaloosa, AL USA > > > Quoting "rwest1 at unl.edu" <rwest1 at unl.edu>: > > > Wim: > > > > I used to use that method, but one time the bushings were > > particularly stubborn, so much so that steaming out the bushings > was > > > > also loosening the glue joint holding the button to the key. Since > > > > > then I've used the felt-plugs-in-the-mortise method. I like that > the > > > > bushings come out easily, but it's also easy to get too much water > in > > > > the plug and key. I've also tried dampening the bushings and the > > using the hot (as in soldering iron hot) brass bushing remover. I > > > didn't have much luck with that. > > > > What are the opinions on the best bushing removal method? Are > there > > > > any other methods out there that are less apt to cause trouble? I > > > get a good final result, but I'm just not very happy with how I get > > > > > there. > > > > Also the big reason why I like hot hide glue is that it provides a > > > good, long-lasting glue joint that lets go when you want it to. In > a > > > > university setting that's a great feature. > > > > I hope this isn't too basic for this esteemed list. > > > > Richard West > > > > > > On Nov 6, 2006, at 10:59 AM, Willem Blees wrote: > > > > > Quoting Cy Shuster <cy at shusterpiano.com>: > > > > > >> How do you get 'em out when you rebush? That's the downside of > > >> Titebond... > > >> > > >> --Cy-- > > > > > > I use the old ironand wet cloth method, and I have an easier > time > > > getting busings out when I've used titebond than some of the > other > > > glues some of the factories use. > > > > > > Wim > > > > > > > > >> > > >> ----- Original Message ----- > > >> From: "Willem Blees" <wblees at bama.ua.edu> > > >> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org> > > >> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:17 PM > > >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] RE : key bushings > > >> > > >> > > >>> Why bother with sticks and brushes? I use tightbond and put it > > on > > >> with > > >>> my fingers. > > >>> > > >>> Wim > > >> > > > > > > > > > Willem Blees, RPT > > > Piano Tuner/Technician > > > School of Music > > > University of Alabama > > > Tuscaloosa, AL USA > > > > > > > > Willem Blees, RPT Piano Tuner/Technician School of Music University of Alabama Tuscaloosa, AL USA
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