In my opinion it has come down to this. The sluggish action must be determined if it is verdigris on the center pins. If this is the case that must be taken care of. Naptha is the first line. There are newer lubircants like Protek that might work. Lets hear your results. If there is no corosion and the centers are tight from moisture, heating the action will produce immediate results. However two hours to two months later you may be back to the same problem. In this case there is the age old remedy of "watering the action" However this can only be learned from "the master" not a mere discussion of it. What is involved is the felt bushing swelling from moisture, or the hole in the flange swelling from moisture or both. The procedure of applying alcohol and water to the bushings to shrink them is well known. However it is also a process that has to be observed and practiced under a "master's" supervision. One person says watering resulted in loose centers that he had to rebush. Well he can say that, but all of the "waterings" I have observed and done myself have not had this result. That is not to say watering will not result in loose bushings down the road. (if so though, it was probably done wrong) It is a complicated procedure. If heat alone will solve the problem, that is the answer. If naptha or Protek will do it, then that is the remedy. However for some tight flange bushings, "watering" really does work. The problem is gettng the solution where it belongs and not any where else, like on the knuckles. For that I suggest the Moody Dripolator. It gets two or three drops in exactly the right place, without unscrewing the action. Maybe it should be called Dick's Dripolator. Whatever, it works. Also there is another ingredient besides alcohol and water which makes this formula really work. However it is experimental as far as I know and I would hesitate to publish this common ingredient (at least to photographers) until further tests and tests of time are completed. Dick Moody ---------- > From: Rob Stuart-Vail <rob_sv@classic.msn.com> > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: RE: Damp Action Drying > Date: Friday, September 19, 1997 2:16 PM > > > However, since the advent of Protek, things have "loosened up" a bit, and some > of these constipated actions seem to function a lot better, thus depriving me > of the "fun" of repinning spinet parts. > > Good luck, > > Rob > > ---------- > From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org on behalf of Paul McCloud > Sent: Friday, September 19, 1997 1:39 AM > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: Damp Action Drying > > List: > I just finished working on a Kimball console action which was almost > frozen due to dampness. The house is only a few blocks from the ocean, > and although it is on an inside wall, really soaked up a lot of > moisture. My usual "cure" is to dry the action slowly with a hair > dryer, and then put Protek on the action centers to keep them from > soaking up more moisture. I also put a dehumidifier in the piano. > Sometimes I use a shrinking solution ("Honey, I shrunk the action!") of > alcohol and water. I have had the unfortunate experience of > overshrinking the centers, and had to rebush a whole set of hammer > flanges.
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