Steinway action rail replacement

[Newton Hunt]

Dear Jerry,

This is not as hard as you may think.  Setup is critical so think
everything out and have all the tools needed to hand.

First get a new rail, from New York if possible.  You can get a blank
rail or one that has the holes drilled.  I would get the one with holes
drilled if possible.

Remove all the action parts after numbering them if they are not allured
numbered.

Carefully measure the location of each flange hole at the ends of the
action for rail location purposes.

On a good solid and flat bench clamp a wide and long enough board to the
bench so that you can screw the stack onto the board without twisting or
racking the rails.

Get some old wippen flanges and cut some sticks that can be glued
between the ears of the flanges when one is screwed to the wippen and
one to the hammer rail.  Make one for each section end or one every
eight to ten inches.  Next glue and screw an extension going from the
hammer flange down to the let-off rail to set the elevation of the new
rail.  (assuming this is a hammer rail you are replacing.)

Determine what type and size of screw you are going to use.  I would
suggest 5/8" 10 pan head sheet metal screws.  Or use the factory screws.

If you have gotten a blank rail I would find a way to fasten to the
let-off rail so that I could transfer the hole locations with a small
square against a let-off screw and scratch the location on the new
rail.  Next get two or three old flanges and secure them to a stick to
act as a locator for the drill press.  I have used an eight foot section
of shelving to do this which was supported at one end and then
transferred to the other end half way through the job.  If you get a
special drill with the brad point (NOT one for wood) from a metal
working supply house you can drill directly through the brass and into
the wood.

After drilling the holes get a multi flute counter sink to use on the
brass.  Just enough to prevent splinters rising up and causing flange
alignment problems later.  You may wish to do this by hand or with an
egg beater type drill.

Get a long screw of the exact type, thread and size you are going to use
and cut the head off the screw. Secure the screw into the chuck of you
drill press and remove the drive belt.  Take the tension off the quill
by pulling the handle out and allow it to turn until the tension is
off.  Hand lover the screw into the hole and turn the quill by hand to
pre-thread the holes.  This will prevent the screws from going in at an
angle and causing all sorts of problems. later.

If you get a pre-drilled tail I would pre-thread the holes the same way.

Now that the rail is ready and the stack is secured to it 's holder you
are ready to do some serious damage to the rails.  Use a hacksaw to
remove the old rail by cutting it off as close to the brackets as you
reasonably can.  Push out the remaining wood dowel.

I use a 500 watt soldering iron instead of a torch, but a small torch
can be used.  Head the brass inside the hole and grasp it with pliers to
pull it out as soon as it is free to move.  If you try to remove the
stud ends by heating the brackets you will remove a lot of the solder
that can be used to reposition the new rail.

Slide the new rail into position and check the measurements of the end
holes to the brackets.  Screw you alignment fixtures into place and
check the vertical and front to back alignments.  If all works out well,
you are ready to solder the new rail into place.

Care must be taken not to heat the rail to the point the wood inside
begins to char.  Solder each joint leaving no solder on the top so you
can slip rail cloth through the holes.  This is not essential, but does
look neat.

Cut off the excess on the ends.

I like to use some very thin nameboard felt on top of the rail glued on
with some Elmers spray on glue.  3M also makes spray on glue as well.

One the cloth is in place use an awl to push through the cloth into the
hole, use the counter sink again the remove some of the cloth and then
start screwing on the hammer shanks taking great care to make sure the
screw is properly threaded.

It is done..

Hope you find this helpful.  Feel free to ask questions.

        Newton
        nhunt@jagat.com