If the brass is not cracked my experience has been that sometimes the pin is not quite lined up and that makes the butt really loose, other times I have found small cracks/splits in the wood of the butt below the felt lined pin hole allow the butt to have a little wobble. I would imagine brass is pretty easy to mold since it has a pretty low melting point compared to Stainless Steel. Rob Edwardsen, RPT Gregory Torres wrote: > James, > > Is it the butt plates that are breaking or the rail itself? If it is chronic > you may just have a case where the brass has "crystallized". I don't know if > this is a legitimate technical term for it but I don't know any other way to > explain it except that the brass has changed it's molecular structure and has > weakened. Or somewhere another tech has over-tightened the screws weakening the > brass. If it is the rail you may have to have the brass rail duplicated. I > don't know who does this anymore-anyone else??? > > You might also be able to get by with the brass rail flange/plate repair clips > sold by Apsco or Schaff. They have proven indispensable for me many times. I > keep a couple dozen of the different types in my parts bin at all times. Good > Luck. > > BTW, maybe someone can explain why stainless steel has not been used in this > type of application (I haven't seen it used anyways) besides being more costly > than brass, perhaps??? Del?? any others?? > > Regards, > Greg Torres > > James Dally wrote: > > > I installed new butts and hammers on a Kroehler upright. I have checked > > the brass rail and the brass butts where the screw goes in. This is the > > type where the screw goes through the rail and then the brass butt receives > > the threaded screw. The butts have been replaced where hammers have > > loosened but the problem continues. When it seems I have solved the > > problem, another hammer loosens. As near as I can tell the rail is not > > cracked. If anyone has had experience with this problem I will certainly > > appreciate advice. Jim Dally
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