"Hacked-up" trap-work

Robert Scott rscott@wwnet.net
Wed, 13 Sep 2000 13:06:18 -0400


The trap-work on this old Henry F. Miller grand looks like it has been
replaced by some junkbox parts from other pianos and I don't think it
is working very well.  The piano is not worth restoring to factory
original condition, but I would like to at least stop the squeaks in
the pedal and improve the function if not the looks of the damper pedal.

In last month's Journal there was an article about drilling out a
guide hole in the keybed for a damper lift dowel and securing that
dowel by countersinking the two wooden members at each end of the
dowel.  In my case the top of the dowel supports not wood but a metal
damper lift rail - a metal rod about 3/8" in diameter which in turn
lifts all the dampers.  I think some of the squeaking is coming from 
the leather-lined dowel guide hole, so I would like to try the upgrade
described in the Journal, but I don't know how to secure the top of the
dowel to the metal damper lift rail if I drill out the guide hole.  
Any ideas?  I can file the top end of the dowel so that it cradles the
damper lift rail, and that will keep the dowel from falling front to
back, but it can still fall side to side.

Another problem with this damper pedal arrangement is that there is no
stop for the pedal other than the combined stops of all the individual
dampers.  Is that usual?  On most pianos it seems that the pedal travel
is limited by an adjustable stop to protect overtraveling the dampers.
Should I make a limiter by adding a capstan screw and a felt pad to the
lever just under the keybed?  Or should I use something more substantial
like a thick carriage bolt?  This piano gets heavy use every Sunday at
our church.

-Robert Scott
 Associate, Detroit-Windsor Chapter




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