"pulley" keys

[Richard Brekne]

Hi Lance... I read your post rightly,, grin.. I think anyways.... I wasnt
refering to the use of any "cutting tool" as I didnt really see that as your
point.

My point is that I feel its best to use a Tool like the Yamaha tool, and go in
from the top. If I read your posting correctly what you do is essentially to use
a tool that has a uniform diameter its whole length, and "size" the hole to that
diameter from the bottom of the key. Sounds good... probably works well enough..
and I used to do it this way myself (tho not with the smooth end of a drill
bit.)

I just found that doing it from the top with a contoured tool is the fastest and
most consistant way to do it.  A little sideways rocking from the top side
doesnt do as much...er.... "damage" (if you get my meaning) as it does from the
bottom, and I found that it was much easier to over-do it from the bottom.

I assume you turn the drill on... so as to turn the smooth end of the bit... how
fast does this go ?? and how much heat does that generate ??

In the end tho....  whatever works.....well... works.

Lance Lafargue wrote:

> Del, Richard, Don, Jim, et al,
>
> Maybe you've not read my _early_ posts carefully....  I used cap letters,
> highlighted, explained, that I turn the bit UPSIDE DOWN, CUTTING END IN THE
> CHUCK OF T HANDLE, CHUCK SIDE OF BIT INTO KEY.  I don't think I am taking
> any more wood than an easing tool does.  It IS only compression... I
> think... And if I am coming in from the bottom, WITH THE DRILL BIT SMOOTH
> END, am I not just making the base of the "V" larger?   So, again, to all of
> you, if the bit compresses/sizes from the bottom of a slightly tight key,
> would that be an acceptable technique?  Thanks,
>
> Lance Lafargue, RPT
> Mandeville, LA
> New Orleans Chapter, PTG
> lancelafargue@bellsouth.net
>

--
Richard Brekne
RPT, N.P.T.F.
Bergen, Norway
mailto:Richard.Brekne@grieg.uib.no