New, Improved Baldwins

[Kevin E. Ramsey]

     A couple of thoughts;
    When bedding these, yes you really have to start from scratch. Back off
the glides, front and back. But I do it a little differently from Roger. I
have the front glides out of the way, and I do the Balance Rail glides
first. One way to get in the "ball-park" quick, is to cut a business card so
that it just fits under the lip of the key top. With all of the glides up,
start in the center and turn that glide down until to see the slightest
movement upward of the key. Stop! Now do the same on the glides on either
side of that one. And work your way out to the ends of he keybed. Now you
can start knocking on the middle ones to see if you perhaps lifted them up
by adjusting the outer glides. Don't be afraid to let the last ones down a
bit, you don't want to just keep raising them until they all don't knock.
( The "I cut it twice, and it's still too short syndrome"). Within two
minutes you're close enough that you can do the Lift and Tap procedure.
Then, you go to the front rail, adjusting the glides only enough to touch
the front rail, not raising it off the balance rail glides. I use thin paper
on these, most of the time; why not? It's easy, and effective.
    Five minutes tops, and I'm sorry I bought the Jarvis Key Leveler, I
don't use it any more. ( Except to check downbearing if I'm writing up a
report.)


Kevin E. Ramsey
ramsey@extremezone.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jolly roger" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2001 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: New, Improved Baldwins


> Hi Kent,
>              The front studs should be set with .020" clearance, the
> thickness of a 6" machinist rule, for the full depth of the front rail.
> Here is a fast way to set the rails if you have a Jaras key leveller.
>
> 1. Back off the balance rail glide bolts.
> 2. Set the front rail glides for the above clearance, and no knock.
> 3. Set the balance rail glides so movement is just detected from the front
> of the key on the Jaras.
> 4. Fine tune the above adjustments with audio knock test.
>
> Caution: If there is not .020" clearance at the rear of the front rail, it
> is posible for the sharps to cause the knocking.
> Regards Roger
>
>
>
> At 12:04 PM 1/25/01 -0600, you wrote:
> >I was called out to see a Baldwin R less than 2 years old. The piano was
> >unplayable. The action was in need of thorough regulation, but the _big_
> >problem was that the front rail was bowed up, decreasing the key dip by
> >unworkable amounts. The front rail has adjustable studs in the keybed,
but
> >the front rail was flying way above the studs, making for a rather
> >interesting feel while playing. I must admit I wasn't sure what to do; if
I
> >raise the studs to bed the front rail, and adjust the height of the keys
and
> >the front rail punchings to get correct key dip, won't I just be asking
for
> >problems if the front rail decides to change shape again come the high
> >humidity of summer?
> >
> >Any experience out there that could help in this situation?
> >
> >Kent Swafford
> >
> >
> >on 1/25/01 6:59 AM, Pianofxrguy@AOL.COM at Pianofxrguy@AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> >> In a message dated 01/23/2001 11:36:15 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> >> purdy@oak.cats.ohiou.edu writes:
> >>
> >>
> >>> .  They were fine when they got here but over the Christmas break the
> >>> regulation went completely out the window
> >>
> >> I have a couple of these grands at a small college in Mishawaka, Ind.
> and had
> >> the same thing happen. There is another piano in the same room as one
of
> >> them, so I couldn't blame the lack of humidity control alone. Baldwin
Piano
> >> Tech. Serv. did approve a small sum for re-regulating the entire
action,
> so I
> >> assume that it has happened elsewhere. I haven't been able to determine
if
> >> the problem is materials or what.
> >> John Stroup
> >
>