Key Leveling

[Jon Page]

Set the height on end the keys, support them from underneath with a small 
screw-jack
(small piece of wood with a machine screw).

Lightly tap the stick on the keys to notice any 'high' ones, remove 
punchings on those.

I start with the deepest keys and insert thick punchings between the key 
and the stick on all
these deep keys, remove the stick, place the punchings on the pins, 
reinstall the key; tap the
stick on keys to see if any are too high. I stay with the thickness until 
tapping causes movement.
Then I use the next thinner punching.

By the time you are down to .003, a slight tap with your fingernail on the 
bottom of each key
will induce movement and slip the punching under the stick.

For sharps, I follow the same routine and place the punching on the natural 
in front of the
sharp; not between the sharp and the stick.

I don't use all the sizes offered by the supply companies. 
2,3,5,10,20,30,40 on the balance rail,
adding 60&80 for the front.  7,12.5, 18, 35,45 etc are superfluous and I 
prefer to have some
thinner punchings for micro-adjusting during regulation if needed.  It also 
cuts down on trying
to figure out its size it replacement is needed during the process, not to 
mention inventory.
It is the way it was shown to me and I stuck with it.

Then it comes time to bury the paper punchings under the felt, remove all 
keys carefully
checking the bottoms to make sure no # 2's or 3's are clinging to them. 
Lift the felt with
tweezers without altering the felt alignment. Don't flip the felt over or 
turn it, the reason for
this is that old felt has been compressed to the inclination of the key at 
rest, so the thinner
portion is towards the back, turning the felt will alter the key height 
slightly.
Newly replaced felt doesn't matter.

Stick with it,

Jon Page

At 10:20 PM 01/26/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>You stick people.
>
>What methodology do you use to measure the gap between a key and the stick
>to determine how much punching to use? Do you just eyeball it and get good
>at it over time? And then, do you remove the stick and set aside to add
>punchings to each key, and set it back on the keyboard for the next key?
>What is your sequence?
>
>And Roger, I believe you had the choice words for the Jaras jig (I'm not
>arguing here, just getting info!), what is it you find to be inadequate in
>its performance. It seems to me there is a bit of wiggle in the rig for it
>to be real consistent, but I have worked most of the bugs out with mine and
>it works pretty good, but I must admit, it does not seem perfect. And I
>would like to have PERFECT key leveling every time. Thanks.
>
>Terry Farrell
>Piano Tuning & Service
>Tampa, Florida
>mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <bases-loaded@juno.com>
>To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 7:30 PM
>Subject: Re: Key Leveling
>
>
> > I walk softly, and carry a big stick.
> >
> > Like Ed's.
> >
> > Mark Potter
> > bases-loaded@juno.com
> >
> > On Fri, 26 Jan 2001 17:11:43 -0500 "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> > writes:
> > > I would also like to know the popular technique(s). I was saddened to
> > > see my
> > > Jaras key leveling device referred to with ill will. What works
> > > better. I
> > > don't really like the traditional stick method. Let's hear it!
> > >
> > > Terry Farrell
> > > Piano Tuning & Service
> > > Tampa, Florida
> > > mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Phil Bondi" <tito@PhilBondi.com>
> > > To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > > Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 3:59 PM
> > > Subject: Key Leveling
> > >
> > >
> > > > ok..what do you folks like to do a top-notch leveling job?
> > > >
> > > > I'm questioning my own devices.
> > > >
> > > > roo(k)
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >

Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
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