Get the right size. Sometimes you can cheat a little if it is a little thin, say 3/16 at the absolute most and preferably less in most circumstances. In some isolated cases this can be somewhat of an advantage if the piano lacks downbearing and you want to try correcting this somewhat by slightly lowering the plate. As a side bar, however, be aware that doing this can also reduce the keybed clearance so that the action won't slide into the piano because the drop screws will run into the block. Even a slight difference can be pretty substantial. One significant reason, (particularly a whopping 1/2 inch), is that your tuning pins in all likelihood will be too long and stick out through the bottom of the block. Then you have to use shorter pins to compensate. This might seem like it isn't a big deal but now you really are starting to change the way the piano was designed. Since the idea of "restoration" is to make the piano like it was when new, you really have passed the threshold of "restoration. Doing a rebuild job requires many hours of hard work. After going through the 98% effort of rebuilding everything else correctly, go the tiny 2% and do it right. It is no big deal to order a new block. You can use the 1-1/2 block on another piano. Rob Goodale, RPT Las Vegas, NV David Renaud wrote: > A Knabe grand pinblock originally 1 3/4" thick. > Sits on the shelf, with wood shims(thin), elevating the > block/plate, to the proper level. Block ends are into the rim about 1/2 > inch. > > The distance from the plate to the bottom of the flange is only 1 1/2 > inches. > So what is so stop me from using a 1 1/2" block and shimming > the shelf the extra 1/4". It is screwed/glued down to the shelf away. > If it is important to use a 1 3/4" block, why is it important? > > I ask as I have the 1 1/2" block material in stock, not 1 3/4" > I am only considering if this may be an option, > consulting with several experts that know better, > including this list. > > Thank You > Dave Renaud > RPT
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