Need info on old Knabe

bases-loaded@juno.com bases-loaded@juno.com
Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:06:14 -0500


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HI Wim -

I agree with Paul when he recommends a lacquer thinner 'swipe' right
before finishing rosewood with lacquer.  It'a a good precaution that
takes very little time to accomplish.  Acetone or alcohol would work
well, too.  (In all likelihood, teak is more problematic this way than
rosewood.)  

As an added precaution, you might consider a 2-lb cut of de-waxed shellac
brushed on the surface (or spray two 1-lb cuts) as a good adhesion coat
and contamination barrier.  Shellac is wonderful when used this way with
the water-based products.  It all but eliminates adhesion problems, and
also is extremely flattering to woods like mahogany, rosewood, and
walnut, something that some water-based products lack.  

Shellac also is completely compatible with solvent-based lacquer, and I
routinely used shellac as the initial clear coats when I sprayed
nitrocellulose lacquer.  I continue that practice today with water-based
lacquers in almost every instance.  

There's really not a compelling reason not to...

Mark Potter
bases-loaded@juno.com



On Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:33:42 -0600 "Paul" <tunenbww@clear.lakes.com>
writes:
Wim 
The oils in rosewood can cause fish eyes in your lacquer. I'm not sure
what there affect is with waterbased finishes. I wash the rosewood down
with lacquer thinner JUST BEFORE spraying it and have had no problems.
Maybe this veneer is old enough to have lost enough oils so the problem
won't exist. Test first. Maybe others will reply. I'd like to hear how WB
finishes work on such veneers.

Paul Chick
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Wimblees@AOL.COM 
To: Pianotech@ptg.org 
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 3:47 PM
Subject: Need info on old Knabe
design. She wants this to be original also. 

Is there a secret to refinishing rosewood? I heard that you don't lacquer

rosewood, that you just use tung oil. Any truth to that? 

Willem 
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